Listen to the summary of this page:

 

---

Unlocking the Power of the Baumr-AG 65CC Long Reach Pole Chainsaw Multi-Tool: Your Ultimate Yard Companion

---

 

---

Unleash Your Inner Lumberjack: MTM Pole Saw Multi Tool 

 

 

 

---

Unleashing Power and Precision: Makita DUX60ZPS 36V (18Vx2) Cordless Brushless Multi-Function Power Head & Pole Saw Kit 

 

---

Unleash the Power of the Outdoors with the Milwaukee 18V 3 Piece 3A (2×8.0Ah) FUEL Power Head Combo Kit

 

 

 

---

Hyundai 10″ Bar 2 Stroke Petrol Pole Chainsaw, 33cc

 

---

EGO MHSC2004E 4 Piece 56V 5.0Ah ARC-Lithium Cordless Brushless Power+ Multi-Tool Power Head Combo Kit

Cordless Pole Saw

Cordless pole saws spread battery rather than electricity in corded saws. This battery is not discarded after a single use; rather, it is designed to be recharged several times. This battery charge can power the saw, but it depends on the type of battery and the saw itself. A single charge allows half an hour to an hour of work. Over the years, Ni-Cad batteries have been the most frequent battery used in battery-powered saws. Due to their long life and even power output as the battery dies, lithium-ion batteries have replaced them in virtually every scenario these days. No other pole chain saw has as little power as a battery-operated pole chain saw.

Nevertheless, it does come with many advantages, including: Increased portability has no tether cord, unlike corded chainsaws; low upkeep – with no additional lubrication and no battery replacement is necessary other than maintaining a sharp blade. Usage – Hold down the power button and squeeze the trigger. Cordless pole saws typically have a blade length between 8 and 10 inches, making them ideal for trimming a tree that is not too huge or straining to reach. The home property owner who only has a few simple pruning and cleaning duties to accomplish a couple times a year is a fit for a cordless pole saw.

Pole saw blade: corded electric pole saws.

The range of bar diameters on corded electric pole saws is usually average from 8” to 10”. Unlike rechargeable pole saws, the power of a corded electric pole saw comes directly from an electrical socket and must be linked to the socket with a wire. Despite the fact that they are ineffective without a 100’ of an electrical source, they have several unique benefits to consumers who don’t mind staying connected:

1) there is no need to charge the saws with oil or refill their fuel tanks;

2) cordless electric pole saws do not require gas tanks, making them much easier to transport than others due to their battery slots.

Budget-friendly

The saws themselves are fairly inexpensive, and there are no additional batteries or fuel to purchase. If you prefer to do just a little more work in your yard trimming your tree while spending less cash, a corded electric pole saw is probably right for you.

Petrol Pole Saws.

Landscape professionals, forestry workers, and homeowners with vast expanses and thick tree branches to prune prefer gasoline-powered pole saws to cut thick tree branches. And what makes petrol pole saws ideal for such heavy-duty work is their gas efficiency – Gas engines with more power, more extended bars, often 10 inches to 12 inches; more torque; features like anti-vibration to reduce wear; an engine mounted at the rear for better axis Petrol-powered pole saws are noisier, more expensive, and also expendable than electric pole saws, but they can meet the needs of working professionals and landowners and switch on a thicker branch without running out of fuel.

Baumr-AG Pole Chainsaw Brush Cutter Whipper Snipper Multi-Tool Pole Saw Review:

This is the first model. The SMX-720 65CC Multi Pro-Series is the ultimate gardening feature and one you need to know more about! Seven accessories are included, and an ingenious tungsten-tipped carbide alloy blade cuts all.! Adjust the extension pole and use it to reach hard-to-reach branches with the 65CC engine’s leading power and BMW’s responsive and directed air injection carburetor! And with its automatic chain lubricator, adjustable chain oil flow, and Baumr ‘s AG’s Easy Start System, there is no need to perform pruning and shaping projects.

 

 

 

You’ll almost certainly be stuck cleaning up after Mother Nature if you have trees in your yard. But what if you discovered that you could transform that mess into cash or simply valuable mulch for plants? Our Best Garden Mulcher (Australia) is the most practical outdoor power equipment. They are particularly well suited for forward-thinking homeowners, lawn care professionals, and property managers.

Generally speaking, woodchippers come in three categories:

1. Chippers that run on electricity
2. Chippers that run on petrol or diesel and commercial-grade chippers are available.

Which one is the most appropriate for you? Consider the size of your property and the amount of yard trash you generally pick up yearly.

Chippers for wood powered by electricity

Electric Wood Chipper:

Electric wood chippers are small, lightweight, and don’t appear like your conventional outdoor power equipment. However, because of their small size and light frame and motor, they are simple to store and carry — a dream come true for any household.

Chippers running on electricity use an extension cord plugged into a standard household outlet. In addition, because they are electric, they require less maintenance, such as oil changes and spark plug replacements, than gasoline-powered vehicles. Plugin your chipper and start chipping, even if you are working in your garage. You won’t have to worry about exhaust emissions when using an electric chipper.

The modest size of electric wood chippers means they can mulch branches and other waste with a diameter of 1 3/8 inches. The branches that electric chippers can handle are not more significant than the different forms of trash that they can shred. Hence electric chippers are frequently referred to as electric chipper shredders.

Instead of relying on gravity, electric chippers come with a tapered section, allowing you to safely feed material down the hopper into the Mulcher and shredder.

Mulcher and shredder that run on petrol or diesel

When chipping more giant diameter sticks and branches, an electric model will not do the job correctly.

Petrol chippers are larger and more powerful compared to their electric equivalents. These chipping machines can chipping branches with diameters ranging from 1 1/2 inches to seven inches in diameter.

Consumers who possess petrol-powered chipper shredders are popular since they allow them to clear large branches and shred leaves while remaining cost-efficient. You will find petrol-powered wood chippers to meet the needs of most lawn care workers. Thanks to the variety of models available, including smaller ones that can push manually across a lawn and bigger models that can tow behind a vehicle.

PTO chippers are attached to the driveshaft of a tractor.

Built for farms and professional usage are commercial wood chippers. It is possible to choose from three basic designs. Each employs a distinct power source to turn the drum or rotor that contains the chipper blades. Tow-behind chippers rely on the power of a petrol engine for their operation. PTO chippers are attached to the driveshaft of a tractor.

Chippers for skid steers connect to a hydraulic port. Whichever type you choose, you’ll need to make sure that your commercial or domestic chipper is compatible with the vehicle used to power it before purchasing it. Check the vehicle’s and chipper’s product manuals for information on power source specifications, hauling weight capacity, and other critical considerations.

Aside from that, you’ll be able to use the auto-feed mechanism that many commercial chippers come equipped with. They automatically draw debris into the hopper for you, saving you both time and energy. But let’s now concentrate on the domestic or semi-commercial type mulcher and shredder. Tree trunks and large limbs are transformed into firewood by you. Alternatively, why not turn the smaller branches and twigs into mulch instead?

When it comes to yard work, chipper shredders are a great choice

If you own acres of land and regularly cut down trees, you can make the most of a petrol chipper shredder, which can be operated at a low speed. Regarding yard work, chipper shredders are a great choice because they can do two jobs simultaneously and are incredibly versatile.

You can deposit leaves and twigs into both the horizontal chute and the gravity-fed vertical hopper. All fed by the horizontal chute and the feed that draws in the branches. Mulch is created by a unique set of shredding knives on the inside of the rotor.

PTO chipper shredders are available for industrial use and can be found on the market. In contrast, a petrol-powered chipper shredder will provide all the power you need if you are not a professional logger.

Petrolchipper shredders are available in two configurations:

1. Chipper shredders that are portable
2. Tow-behind chipper shredders are a type of chipper.

Regardless of which option you choose, purchasing a chipper shredder rather than renting one every year will save you money.

Petrol-powered chipper-shredder on wheels

A portable chipper shredder is an excellent idea for homeowners who regularly do yard cleanups. They have sturdy wheels attached to their frames, which allows them to be pushed or pulled across a yard by hand without breaking down.

They might not be the most convenient option if you need to transport your chipper across several acres of land. Suppose you have a small or mid-sized property to clean. In that case, this is by far the most cost-effective and robust solution (which explains why they are popular among domestic consumers).

Portable Mulchers can reduce many yard debris bags to one bag of mulch in as little as 15 minutes. Furthermore, these petrol-powered models can handle branches and tree limbs with diameters of up to three inches.

Tow-Behind Gas Chipper Shredder with a hopper

Tow-behind Mulcher and shredder are available for landowners and professional contractors. Smaller units can handle branches with diameters ranging from two to three inches. In comparison, larger models can take branches ranging from seven to ten inches.

Simply mount one of these on your ATV, tractor, or other vehicles. Furthermore, or even on your truck, and you’ll be ready to chip for acres. (NOTE: Before attaching a pull-behind chipper, always check your vehicle’s product manual to determine the towing weight capacity and recommended hitch style for your car.)

The best bets are hydraulic or automatic feed models, which automatically feed the debris into the chipper. Combined with the petrol engine’s power to turn the chipper shredder’s rotor, this feature will make chipping and shredding more efficient.

Rather than exerting yourself to exhaustion with an axe, a log splitter (Australia) allows you to split more wood with significantly less effort. Log splitters use a large amount of pressure applied to a tiny surface area. The question is, how do you know how much pressure you require?

---

---

---

The density of the wood, or its hardness, is measured in pounds per square inch. It’s irrelevant whether the wood is green or seasoned. Use this handy chart for an initial sense of how much force you’ll want from your wood splitter. Then continue reading to find out more!

What is the size of your logs?

Something you might not have realised about the wood: some of the most critical cells inside a living tree are long and fibre-like, running up and down the length of the tree’s trunk or branches. When we look at a piece of cut wood, we see this arrangement as the grain of the wood.

Log splitters function by providing pressure to the wood, which causes it to split down the grain rather than shortening the grains. Splitting wood along the grain is more manageable than cutting it short, requiring specialist tools such as chainsaws.The greater the thickness of a log, the more the amount of wood there is to force apart on either grain side. Logs with a broader diameter require more force to split than smaller logs.

A 4-ton log splitter will work well for limbs 2-3 metres in length, but a tree trunk that is 8 metres in length will require at least the force of a 20-ton splitter.

Seasoned Wood vs. Unseasoned Wood

Green logs are logs that have been newly cut. They’ll have a faint green or yellow tint to their appearance. Most of the moisture they held while the stumps retained part of a living tree.

As wood ages, its moisture gradually evaporates, causing it to become increasingly brittle. As a result, older firewood splits and burns considerably faster than younger wood. Several names know this procedure:

1. Reached its prime
2. Cured wood
3. Has been seasoned

Properly seasoned wood, which has been allowed to cure for at least six months, will have a colour closer to brown than greenwood.

Whether you plan to split green wood or not, you’ll need a more powerful log splitter or some old-fashioned, inexpensive patience. Professionals advise waiting until your wood has had time to cure before splitting it. Thus, more tonnage may be applied to split fallen wood successfully.

Guide To Log Splitting in Australia

Name:	Air-dry Density (kg/m3)	Splitting	Prefered Log Splitter (Tonnes)
Mallee Roots		Difficult	55 (T) or above
Grey Box	1121	Difficult	33 (T) or above
Yellow Box	1090	Difficult	33 (T) or above
Red Gum	915	Difficult	20 (T) or above*
Stringy Bark	890	Good	8 (T) or above
Messmate	771	Good	8 (T) or above
Wattle	705	Excellent	6 (T) or above

* Note: Some redgum logs (those with many knots) may struggle with a 20-tonne log splitter. It is always advisable to discuss the local options with your wood merchant.

---

---

---

 

Hardness and Density of the Wood

If you know how thick your logs are and whether or not they’re seasoned, you can make better decisions about the tonnage you need in a log splitter. However, if you want to go any farther, you can consider the type of wood you intend to split and its hardness. Remember those long, fibrous cells that we talked about before? Different kinds of trees have varying amounts of space between their fibres.

Hardwoods are dense woods with minimal space between the fibres of the wood. Softwoods are woods that are lighter in weight and have much space between their fibres. Hardwoods, such as oak and hickory, are distinguished from softwoods produced by pine and other cone-bearing trees. Looking up the Janka hardness value of the wood you intend to split might help. You evaluate whether or not you require a splitter that employs greater power to do the task.

As soon as you’ve decided how much tonnage you’ll require from your log splitter, you can select the type of log splitter that will meet your requirements.

Naturally, the higher-grade machines split wood faster than the lower-grade machines.

There are two grades of petrol-powered splitters according to our classification:

1. DIY’er
2. Professional

Consumer-Grade (DIY) Log Splitters Powered by Petrol

Consumer-grade, petrol-powered log splitters are suitable for the weekend warrior who regularly splits logs for their usage.

They can split logs up to 53cm in length and have a breaking force of 8-16 tonnes, making them stronger than most electric log splitters. Before, many consumer-grade models lacked the strength to split large logs in a vertical posture. Before breaking a log, you had to lift it onto the splitter bed and place it there.

These days, many horizontal and vertical log splitters are available at affordable prices for the average consumer.

You’ll need an ATV or golf cart to move smaller gas log splitters (Australia) around your yard. They are not permitted to travel on public roadways.

Petrol Log Splitters Designed for the Homeowners: You might consider upgrading to a speedier and more durable prosumer-grade device if you split logs more than once a year. More powerful engines generate 20-29 tons of force, allowing them to split longer, broader, and more detailed logs (they are also more expensive).

When lifting massive logs, the horizontal beam on prosumer-grade models relieves some strain, which may switch to a vertical position. It is, therefore, possible to slide more giant trees beneath the wedge without needing to lift them.

Most consumer-grade models may be towed directly to your woodpile if you take the back roads instead of the main ones. It is not the norm for log splitters to travel at high speeds on the highway.

Petrol log splitters of the highest quality for professional use

An authentic log-splitting professional understands that quality does not come at a low price.

If you are splitting logs for a living, you do not require a weak wood splitter. You’re going to need a speed demon. After all, time is a valuable commodity. Models of professional-grade log splitters are substantially identical to consumer-grade models with the best petrol log splitter in Australia. They come with more powerful and pricey engines capable of increasing the force above 30 tonnes.

Both grades are capable of splitting logs up to 66cm in length. You can get through them even quicker with the professional-grade version, converting trees into cold, hard cash faster.

Electric log splitters require electricity, of course. They may also demand that the electrical circuit be rated for a specific amount of amperage to function correctly. Thus, the sole drawback of owning and operating a log splitter (Australia) is for a property owner who does not require splitting large logs or large quantities of firewood.

The following are some advantages of petrol-less log splitters:

 

Large log capacity: can split up to 60cm in length and 30cm in diameter, depending on the model (depending on model).

Low maintenance requirements: there is no need to refuel or change the engine oil.

User-friendliness: it all starts with a simple push of a button.

No exhaust emissions exist, so using them indoors can be generally achieved (only if safe).

Tonnage rating is that which separates one model from another and will set it apart from the rest. Choose the features and benefits that are most important to you, and use an electric wood splitter to keep warm and clean this winter.

The tonnage of an Electric Log Splitter

Tonnage Splitter with Electric Motor

A tonnage is a unit of measurement for the force required to split logs. 

Electric log splitters are an excellent option for splitting logs that are less than 24 inches in length and 12 inches in diameter. It’s normal to see models with a 5 to 10 tonnes force rating. At the same time, more powerful splitters are also available on the market.

Several factors influence the tonnage you’ll require for an electric log splitter. These include:

Log length & diameter Dimensions 

Wood hardness is a measure of how hard a wood is.

Consider the size and density of the logs you intend to split. Then, select a cargo appropriate for your logs and your budget requirements. Generally speaking, the higher the tonnage rating of a log splitter, the more expensive the log splitter will be.

Electric Log Splitter Performance Specifications

 

Electric Splitter Rotational Speed

When shopping for log splitters (electric), you’ll most likely find a rating for the time it takes to split a log—cycle time measured in seconds rather than minutes. The cycle time is when it takes for the ram to extend and then return to its starting position fully.

The shorter the cycle time, the more quickly your log splitter can split logs on the job site. Some electric log splitters, on the other hand, are equipped with additional features that can help you split logs even more swiftly, such as:

This feature breaks a single log into four pieces.

Prevent shorter logs from being split completely using a technique known as stroke limiting or log reduction. They result in double the splitting capacity of the previous model. A two-way splitting wedge can split logs when the extended ram returns to its starting position. The option to utilise a four-way wedge: This feature breaks a single log into four pieces.

To split your firewood efficiently (which may be necessary if you’re working in the winter! ), seek an electric log splitter with some or all of the above qualities.

Electric Log Splitter Positioning Features Another advantage of electric log splitters is that they are lightweight and portable. Despite more significant, robust variants mounted on tow-behind trailers, most smaller models can be carried and pushed by hand. They are helping to make them simple to transport and set up in various locations.

Look for the following features to assist you in placing your electric log splitter in the most convenient location for you to use it.

Wheels:

These are attached to the frame to make towing more accessible and often come made of plastic (which is more economical) or high-density rubber (which is more durable) (more durable)

Log cradles or trays:

With built-in catches will catch logs after they’ve been split, saving you the trouble of bending over to see them.

Full-length stand: detachable; allows you to operate with the splitter at waist height without the splitter taking up valuable workspace on a work surface. Electric log splitters with such features are convenient but also comfortable.

 

3-Point linkage tractor-mounted Log Splitter (Australia)

Using your tractor, you can move a large log splitter through rugged terrain without pulling a trailer. These wood splitters are attached to your tractor’s 3-point hitch, allowing you to put its hydraulics to work. Why not use it to assist in the operation of the log splitter?

A 3-point log splitter can deliver 13-31 tonnes of force, making it an excellent choice for splitting large logs. Sometimes, a three-point log splitter can be used with Category 1, 2, or 3 hitches, depending on the model.

Below are the characteristics to look for for the ideal model for you.

Log splitters with three points of hydraulic and PTO power

your tractor’s hydraulic system will provide the force that moves the ram of your log splitter. It is critical to ensure that your tractor’s hydraulic system is compatible with your log splitter.

Tumbling Bar for PTO

Suppose you can’t find the information you need in your tractor’s manual. The most crucial measurement on your tractor is the hydraulic oil flow rate, often known as the total flow rate. You’ll find it expressed in gallons per minute, abbreviated as GPM. You might be able to locate it on the TractorData website, which has a wealth of information.

Listed on the device: the minimum suggested flow rate for each 3-point log splitter. Before purchasing a splitter, ensure that your tractor can produce a flow rate at least as high as that of the splitter.

Power for your log splitter’s pump may generally come supplied by your tractor’s power take-off (PTO). A PTO conversion kit – available as an optional purchase, may be accessible in those situations.

3-Point Splitter with Hydraulic Hoses, Tonnage Log Splitter, and Tractor PSI 3-Point Splitter

When it comes to hydraulics, you need to know more than just the flow rate of your tractor’s hydraulic fluid before you can couple it.

With a 3-point linkage log splitter: you also need to know the pressure of the fluid while the tractor is in operation – measured in PSI, which is pounds per square inch.

The hydraulic fluid pressure of your tractor has an impact on two crucial characteristics of your wood-splitter:

The amount of force applied when splitting time, or the quantity of cargo it transports. Cycle time refers to how long a RAM module stretches fully and returns to its original position after being extended (also affected by flow rate).

When browsing for 3-point log splitters, you’ll notice that the manufacturers recommend the PSI range. You may also find an upper restriction, such as a PSI value that your tractor should not surpass when using your log splitter. Make sure that your tractor is capable of operating within the specified parameters.

Additional Three-Point Splitter Characteristics

Three-Point linkage Log Splitter: Once you’ve determined that your hydraulic or PTO log splitter is compatible with your tractor. You can determine whether it has any additional features to make log splitting enjoyable.

One of the most popular features is the ability to split logs in horizontal or vertical positions, depending on preference. A vertical/horizontal splitter that can swap places provides users with two convenient ways to split logs: vertically and horizontally.

Splitting logs vertically eliminates the need to lift and move heavier, larger logs. 

Try to get your hands on a model that enables two-way return. It can split a log while the ram is extending and then split another log while returning to the starting position. Particular 3-point splitters can also make splitting more rapid in some cases.

In addition to, tractor owners with vast properties to clear and many logs to split. 3-point linkage log splitters (Australia) are ideal for firewood dealers who need to split larger logs for their customers. Large logs aren’t stood a chance against the force of your tractor.

How to Care for Your Hydraulic Log Splitter in the Correct Way

The pressure generated by a hydraulic log splitter is challenging to match, but what happens if the machine is not properly maintained?

Log Splitter with Hydraulics

The hydraulic hoses may wear out and begin to leak hydraulic fluid. The pressure applied to force the fluid through the leak will be sufficient to remove the skin from your hand.

Can reduce the performance over time if the hydraulic fluid is contaminated. A dried-out hydraulic ram may rust and cause damage to the seal that surrounds the shaft and keeps the hydraulic fluid in place, causing the Ram to fail.

And, perhaps most crucially, if loose elements in the pump or engine are not tightened or repaired immediately, they might cause catastrophic failure.

Having established why it is critical to maintaining your hydraulic log splitter, let’s look at the actions you must take to accomplish this:

1. Take a look at the user manual
2. Check the hoses for damage.
3. Make use of new hydraulic fluid.
4. Ensure that the Ram is well lubricated.
5. Check the engine’s performance.
6. Take a look at the pull cord.
7. Inspect the pump for any problems.

Look over the User Manual.

Consult the Owner’s Manual for more information.

When you initially received your log splitter, the first thing you did likely was throw away the instruction manual. Hopefully, this is not the case!

The first step is to locate your log splitter product manual and read through the precise maintenance recommendations for your particular model.

Even though we’ll discuss some generic hydraulic log splitter (Australia) maintenance procedures, each log splitter model has its features and design characteristics.

Something beneficial to one individual may not be advantageous to another. Please make a point to pull out that manual and give it a last once-over before moving on.

2. Check the hoses for damage.

Check the Piping for Damage

Furthermore, in the case of your wood splitter, hoses or pipes will be visible, travelling from the reservoir to the ram cylinder. The hydraulic pressure hoses are responsible for transferring fluid from the reservoir to the cylinder to generate pressure.

There can be several tons of pressure per square inch created by force. If you suspect that you may have a leaky hose, do not look for it. Instead, call for help. Considerable pressures escaping via a bit of hole are enough to shred the skin.

Apply pressure to where you feel there may be a leak with a stiff piece of cardboard or a playing card while moving it carefully over it. Try to determine whether or not a leak exists; the cardboard will rip through or discolour.

If you discover a leak, replace the hoses as soon as possible. You are not required to lose a finger as a result of procrastination.

3. Make use of new hydraulic fluid.

Make Use of New Fluid

Check the water level in your hydraulic fluid reservoir on an annual basis. The milky grey colour noticed you in the hydraulic fluid. Water pollution in your hydraulic fluid can accumulate over time.

The effectiveness of your log splitter (Australia) will progressively decline due to the toxic hydraulic fluid. It happens so gradually that you might not even realise it at first. However, this will result in a log splitter that performs poorly over time.

Drain it and replace it with fresh hydraulic fluid whenever you find milky grey contamination in your hydraulic fluid.

4. Ensure that the Ram is well lubricated.

Grease the RamThe ram of your hydraulic log splitter is another crucial machine component. You must keep the Ram thoroughly oiled at all times. Keep every square inch of it lubricated because a dry ram will quickly turn into a rusted ram if not correctly maintained.

Rusted rams will cause damage to the hydraulic seal, which is something you do not want to happen. You should sand off any rust that has formed, clean it, and reapply grease if you spot it.

5. Inspect the engine oil for leaks.

Suppose a gas engine powers your hydraulic log splitter (Australia). In that case, it will require the same level of maintenance as any other gas engine.

Check the oil to ensure that it is clean and well-stocked. Adequately grease all valves and the crankshaft before starting the engine.

Check the carburettor to ensure that your engine is operating at peak efficiency. Remove the spark plug and inspect the distance between the electrodes and the condition of the electrodes. A healthy engine is just as vital as a healthy hydraulic system in terms of overall performance.

6. Examine the Log Splitter Pull Cord and the Pull Cord.

Pull the pull cord out and examine it along its entire length for signs of wear and tear. When left unattended, cords fray and become weaker, and the last thing you want is for yours to snap when you need it the most.

When you see considerable fraying in the pull cord, purchase a new card to replace the old one. You’ll know it’s ready to go when you need it because it’ll be ready to go again.

7. Check the Pump’s Operation

Check the pump’s condition.

The engine is responsible for driving the pump in your hydraulic system. It is often operated by a power take-off (PTO) connection, thus making sure there is no loose play in the coupling.

If possible, examine your pump’s central spindle to ensure it isn’t becoming excessively loose. Under pressure, the pump may fail if each component has too much play.

While you cannot tighten these components, you can swap out the bearings. Broken bearings typically cause looseness in the coupling and the central spindle, so if you feel that they are becoming a little sloppy, try replacing them as soon as possible.

Indicators of Potential Problems

Keep an ear out for strange sounds or excessive vibration while operating your log splitter. Vibration is an unmistakable sign that something is seriously wrong.

The hydraulic pump and the engine are the sole components that generate considerable vibration. Therefore, one of these two components may malfunction if you hear or feel excessive vibrations from your log splitter.

Finally, although it is possible, it is uncommon that you have to deal with many faults simultaneously. Keep up with your maintenance schedule, and your log splitter (Australia) should serve you for many years with the best electric log splitter in Australia.

Applicable Models from

SX25 10″ (Smallest)	SX38 16″	SX45 18″	SX52 20″
SX62 20″	SX75 22″	SX82 24″

Lawn-and-garden professionals and handypersons alike need petrol chainsaws. They can go anywhere: storage unit, work locker, garage, even ute. Simple tasks become simple with a chainsaw. To clear overhanging branches, prepare firewood, and remove bushfire hazards, use a Baumr-AG chainsaw.

Assembly of your petrol chainsaw

Assembly: While most petrol chainsaws equipment requires minimal assembly, the requirements vary by model. Unpack all components and check their receipt before assembling.

You will need to remove the chain drive cover from the chainsaw body. If the surface is stuck, disengage the chain brake by pulling the chain brake handle back towards the machine body. Most models have a helpful log spike, and to install a log spike, place it in front of the machine body and secure it with the supplied fasteners.

Stopping unwanted vibrations with a dampener

If the machine has a vibration dampener (generally on the larger chainsaw models), it is installed beneath the chain bar mounting.

1. Hold the dampener in place and secure it with the supplied fastener. Bar and Chain are the workhorses of the machine and, therefore, should be maintained in good working order for the life of the chainsaw.
2. Attach the saw chain to the drive sprocket. In some models, the drive sprocket is above the clutch. Orient the saw chain cutters’ sharp edges in the right direction.
3. Position the chain bar so the drive chain cover studs protrude through the chain bar’s slot.
4. Wrap the chain around the chain bar in the groove. Ensure that the chain tension spigot engages with its hole in the chain bar (if necessary, adjust the position of the chain tension spigot – see Adjusting Saw Chain Tension) and that the drive cover studs enter the mounting holes in the chain drive cover.
5. Adjust chain tension after reinstalling chain drive cover nuts, then fully tighten (don’t overtighten).

Air Filter

Air filters keep dirt particles out of the engine, preventing internal damage. The air filter needs regular cleaning. Before starting the machine each day during use, check the air filter.

Fuel

Fill the fuel tank with the proper fuel. Use non-ethanol unleaded petrol mixed 25:1 with 2-stroke engine oil (higher RON values and sound quality 2-stroke oil). Use only fresh fuel/oil (essential to avoid contamination).

To refuel:

1. Lay the machine horizontally on a level surface, with the fuel cap facing up.
2. Cleaning the machine around the fuel filler prevents debris from entering the engine.
3. Rotate the fuel filler cap left.
4. Carefully fill the tank with fuel. Don’t overfill the tank or the filter (if equipped).
5. Reinstall (rotate right) the fuel filler cap. Wipe away any leftover fuel. If fuel has spilt, move the machine away from the spilt fuel.

* Chainsaw Parts –

Saw Chain Lubricant 

The saw chain and drive system require an adequate lubricant to operate safely and efficiently. Check the chain lubricant level and make sure it’s correct. The machine comes unlubricated. Only use oils designed for this specific purpose. Most good hardware stores can supply chainsaw chain oil.

Spark Plug 

The spark plug may, at times, come loose from the lead. If this is the case, place the electrical lead over the spark plug terminal and firmly connect it – applying downward pressure.

Igniting the air/fuel mixture is done by the spark plug. The spark plug needs regular care.

Cleaning 

1. Clean the spark plug electrodes using a brush made of wire.
2. Clean threads and the top terminal.

Adjust the spark plug “gap”:

Gauges measure the existing gap. The indicator must dangle between the electrodes (2) to be accurate.

2. Close the gap to specification (see Specifications). If the gap is too large, gently tap the electrode. To widen the gap, gently pull the electrode with pliers.
3. recheck the gap before reinstalling the spark plug.

Removal/Installation

1. Remove the electrical lead (A) and rubber boot (B) from the spark plug terminal (C). Under the air filter cover or underneath the air filter, on some models, is where the spark plug is.
2. Clean around the spark plug to prevent dirt from entering the engine.
3. Remove the spark plug with the tool (D) (rotate left).

Replacing the spark plug:

1. Insert the spark plug and tighten it (rotate right).
2. Tighten the spark plug a quarter turn with the spark plug tool (do not over-tighten).
3. Place the electrical lead over the spark plug terminal and firmly connect it.
4. Replace the rubber boot, securing it firmly against the machine body. Remove any other components to access the spark plug (air filter, air filter cover).

 

Saw Chain Tension

Before using the saw, ensure the chain is tensioned correctly and the chain drive cover nuts are tightened. Do not check or adjust chain tension while the engine is running. The petrol chainsaw chain will “stretch” with use, so check tension before and after use.

Tension Check

1. Disengage the chain brake and turn off the engine.
2. The saw chain must fit snugly into the chain bar’s groove and be hand-pullable. The saw chain should easily lift out of the chain bar groove.
3. A chain that is too tight in the chain bar groove cannot be lifted out or pulled around the bar by hand.

Changing Tension

The adjustment screw is located along the front edge of the chain drive cover or on the side of the chain drive cover.

1. Disengage the chain brake and turn off the engine.
2. Remove the chain drive cover nuts (B). Prevent the chain bar from falling out.

The adjustment mechanism can be damaged if contaminated with sawdust, wood particles, dirt, etc.

4. Replace the chain drive cover, but only screw the nut on “finger-tight” – the chain bar should be able to be lifted slightly.
5. Lift the chain bar end and adjust the tension using a suitable screwdriver by rotating the adjustment screw right (clockwise) or left (anti-clockwise).
6. Tighten the chain drive cover nuts while holding the chain bar.
7. Check and adjust chain tension as needed.

 

Engine Starting and Stopping

Engine Start-Up

When the engine seems to be cold, set the choke to “COLD”. Place the choke in “RUN” mode if the engine is hot.

2. IGNITION – Turn the engine ON/OFF switch (B) to “ON”.
3. DECOMPRESS – If the engine has a decompression button (generally larger capacity engines), depress it.
4. START – Before pulling the starter cord, ensure the machine is on the ground and steady it with one foot on the rear handle and one hand on the top handle. When pulling the starter cord, you will feel it engage the engine, then pull it quickly. Slowly rewind the starter cord – do not “snap” it.

The starter cord may need pulling several times to fill the carburettor. Place the choke (A) in the “RUN” position, squeeze the throttle once, release it, and repeat step 3.

5. WARM-UP – Let the engine warm-up. Move the choke to the “RUN” position if choking. Some models automatically shift the choke to “RUN when squeezing the throttle.”

For non-starters, repeat steps 3 and 4. If the engine still doesn’t start, see Troubleshooting.

Engine Shutdown

Release pressure from the throttle, which will, in turn, reduce the RPM, and turn the engine OFF/ON switch.

 

Environmental Considerations

Altitude: Carburettor adjustments at or above 1500m may be required. Generally, the air becomes less oxygenated as altitude increases, the fuel/air ratio becomes richer, and the higher the altitude, the richer the fuel mixture becomes. No adjustments are required if the engine is only used occasionally at altitude (not extreme altitudes). If the motor is continuously operated at a high altitude, an authorised service centre should adjust the carburettor.

Chainsaw Operation 

Petrol chainsaws are high-speed equipment with exposed blades. Before using the equipment, please read and fully comprehend this section and all other safety warnings, recommendations, and usage instructions.

1.  Always use the machine in protective clothing and equipment.
2. Inspect the machine for wear and damage before each use. If the machine is damaged, take it to an authorised service centre to be repaired.
3. Excessive machine vibration may indicate wear or damage. Once the engine starts, the cutting blades will rotate, and parts of the machine may become extremely hot.
4. If the chain brake is engaged or the saw chain is pinched, do not run the engine above idle. – running with the chain brake engaged for more than a few seconds can severely damage the clutch or chain brake mechanism, making it unsafe.
5. Before using the saw, tighten the chain drive cover nuts and tension the saw chain.
6. Always release chain tension after work to avoid saw chain cooling and contraction damage.

Using the Chain Brake

Brake Chain Use

Even when the engine is running, the chain brake stops the saw chain. 

• In an emergency; 
• Before starting the engine.
• When transporting or storing the machine.

To use the chain brake, push the handle forwards until it “clicks”.

To disengage the chain brake, pull the chain brake handle backwards. Disengage the chain brake before cutting.

Testing

Start the engine and engage the chain brake to test it. The chain brake is working if the saw chain does not rotate after 2 seconds of full throttle. If the saw chain turns during the test, do not use the machine and have it serviced.

Inspection and Cleaning 

Operators must adequately maintain the saw chain and chain bar for efficiency and safety.

1. Has broken or chipped cutters, damaged rivets, or corrosion.
2. It cannot be adequately tensioned or sharpened due to “stretch”.

Soak the saw chain for 15 minutes in a proprietary saw chain cleaning solution, solvent, or ammonia/water mixture to remove dirt, grease, and resin/sap. Wash and dry the saw chain, then lubricate it.

1. Bends, cracks, chips, or corrosion of the chain bar.
2. The depth of the saw chain groove is no longer sufficient for the saw chain to sit correctly and run along the top edges of the chain bar groove.

Remove dirt, grease, and resin/sap from the saw chain groove and lubricant inlet hole by cleaning the chain bar with a proprietary saw chain cleaning solution, solvent, or ammonia/water mixture. Dislodge any stubborn particles from the saw chain groove using suitable tools or objects.

To remove the saw chain:

1. Disengage the chain brake and turn off the engine.
2. Remove the chain drive cover nuts. Prevent the chain bar from falling out.
3. Carefully remove the saw chain from the chain bar groove and the chain drive gear.
4. Carefully remove the chain drive cover stud.

The tension adjustment mechanism and threads are easily damaged if adjusted with a dirty tool.

Engine Tuning Guidelines 

Engines may need “tuning” if it is rough, emits excessive smoke, are not revving or idling correctly, have reduced power, or does not respond crisply to the throttle. While basic 2-stroke engine tuning is not complex, it is essential to learn the tuning process, how to recognise symptoms, and where and how to make adjustments.

Note that altitude, fuel mixture, and ambient temperature can affect the engine’s performance. Improper tuning causes two primary engine conditions:

• Rich – An too rich adjustment will cause engine damage, smoke, and insufficient power when the proportions of fuel in the air/fuel mixture are too high. The partially burned mixture exits the engine as smoke. Long-term use of the spark arrestor (if equipped) and cylinder ports may cause carbon buildup. Aside from carburettor adjustments, too much oil in the fuel or old fuel can cause this.
• Lean – A lean mixture causes less power and is more likely to damage the engine than a rich mixture. The proportion of fuel in the air/fuel mixture is too low to burn. Excessive revving and lean running cause cylinder temperature to rise, causing engine seizure and connecting rod bearing failure. A lack of oil in the fuel mix and running out of fuel are other causes of lean running.
• Clean the air filter before tuning.
• Check the plug.
• Refuel.

Carburettor Tuning

The carburettor has three settings:

• Idle Speed – Determines how open the throttle is when released. A lack of air/fuel mixture causes the engine to stall when the throttle is released. When the idle speed is too high, the engine will run when the throttle is released, but at a pace that will engage the clutch and cause the saw chain to rotate.

It controls the proportion of fuel in the air/fuel mix at idle. If the low \sspeed mixture is too rich, the engine will load up when idling and then stop. A lean, low, speed mixture causes the engine to race or surge while idling.

It controls the proportion of fuel in the air/fuel mixture while working. Excessive smoke and poor throttle response may occur if the high-speed mix is too rich. A lean, high-speed mixture can cause bearing failure and piston seizure. It will also be weak in power and run hot.

Factory Settings 

Defaults

Each adjustment screw has a “factory setting” that is measured from “IN” (right / clockwise) until fully seated (but not tight).

From here, count the complete rotations of the screw “OUT” (rotate left/anticlockwise).

Default settings:

• Idle Speed – 5 turns; Low-Speed Mixture – 2.5 turns.
• High-Speed Mixture – 2 turns.

Tuning starts with the factory settings. Set all adjustment screws to factory defaults, then test the engine. Before rotating the screwdriver, ensure it’s correctly engaged with the adjustment screw.

Tuning

1. Start the engine and warm up – tuning cold engine results in rich running when warm. If the engine won’t idle, use the throttle to keep it running (don’t let it run continuously at high speed).

To change the idle speed:

1. Turn the adjustment screw 1/4 turn in (clockwise) or out (anticlockwise) to increase or decrease it.
2. Set the pace so the engine idles quickly without the clutch.
3. Never set the idle so the saw chain rotates.
4. Adjust the low-speed mixture if the engine won’t idle (step 3).

The adjustment screw is rotated “IN” (right / clockwise) to lean the low-speed mixture and rotated “OUT” (left / anticlockwise) to richen the low-speed mixture. The lean adjustment position is when the engine surges or wants to stop. Note the number of screw rotations to reach the lean adjustment position. Turn the adjustment screw OUT, and the engine should improve. To adjust for richness, keep rotating the screw OUT until the engine starts loading.

Compare the number of screw rotations required to reach the rich adjustment position to the lean adjustment position. Then, rotate the screw IN until the engine idles best – between rich and lean. You may need to adjust idle speed now (step 2).

Rotate “IN” (right/clockwise) to lean the high-speed mixture;  “OUT” (left/anticlockwise) to richen the high-speed mixture. Screw OUT until the engine slows and runs at a moderate speed. Turn the adjustment screw IN, and the engine should run better. Screw in until the engine reaches its maximum speed. Turn the screw OUT an eighth (1/8) to a quarter (1/4) for better engine cooling.

 

This machine comes powered by an 8HP 4-stroke forced air-cooled OHV engine that can trench up to 60 metres per hour, exceeding industry standards. A centrifugal clutch ensures easy starting. There’s a throttle lever, a stop switch, an emergency stop, and a lever-operated wheel lock for super-easy and safe handling on the handlebars.

This trencher digger achieves depths to 600mm

The TRN660 gets the job done faster than manually digging the correct measurements with 27 replaceable carbide alloy blades operating on a 1m bar that eats in increments up to 600mm deep and 100mm wide. With a width of about 94cm, this revolutionary design permits access through gates and trenching near walls.

1	Ultra-reliable 8 HP 4-Stroke OHV petrol engine with forced air cooling and 27 carbide alloy teeth
2	Throttle lever, stop switch, emergency stop, and wheel lock with lever activation
3	Chain bar, 1 metre
4	Steel construction for long life
5	14″ pneumatic tyres, heavy-duty
6	Depths up to 600mm and 100mm broad are variable.
7	Dispersal of helical debris
8	Chainguard that adjusts on its own
9	Front guide wheel: 8″
10	Handlebar with height adjustment

User friendly and tough

A helical debris dispersal mechanism on the device effectively displaces dug up soil away from the trenching line, allowing you to move on to the next job faster. The 8″ front guide wheel ensures the user maintains a strict line despite the machine’s tremendous output, and the chain guard self-adjusts to any resistance from the dirt during digging. Its handlebar is also height-adjustable, making it suitable for varying heights and trench depths operators.

Baumr-AG has ensured that this unit outperforms all alternatives by using high-quality inputs. It has a superior chain drive system with several grease nipples in the front and rear to ensure that your machine endures the test of time and conquers the harsh rocky terrain it encounters. It also comes with a set of tough XL 14″ pneumatic tyres with an extra-wide 6″ flotation design that can handle any terrain.

This machine provides a no-hassle alternative to earth trenching, completing operations swiftly, efficiently, and with ease. It has the ideal combination of power, control, manoeuvrability, and dependability. So get the ground-breaking Baumr-AG TRN660 Trencher digger today and leave inferior excavation techniques in the dust!

 

**Exploring the Raptor 900 Wood Chipper/Shredder: A Professional’s Choice**

*Unleash the Pinnacle of Wood Chipping Excellence*

Allow us to introduce the distinguished **Portable Wood Chipper/Shredder**, now available for your acquisition. This remarkable self-feeding apparatus stands as a paragon of ingenuity, meticulously tailored to meet the discerning demands of estate owners, horticultural enthusiasts, and seasoned landscaping professionals alike.

**Harnessing Unparalleled Power with DirectDrive Technology**

– A groundbreaking DirectDrive system, engendering an impressive eight horsepower of commanding output.
– Anchored by a 208cc OHV engine, this exemplar of efficiency mitigates component stress, bidding adieu to the onerous task of belt replacements.

**Seamless Mobility for Optimal Utility**

– Impeccably engineered for effortless relocation, ensuring an invaluable asset for landscaping augmentation.
– Profoundly adept at streamlining property maintenance, this innovation exemplifies the zenith of mobility and adaptability.

**Seamless Wood-to-Mulch Transformation**

– Four unyielding, heavy-duty hardened steel blades, in concert with strategically emplaced hammers, orchestrate the harmonious metamorphosis of timber into precious mulch.
– Accompanied by a capacious collection receptacle, facilitating the facile disposal and conveyance of your meticulously crafted mulch.

**Built to Endure: Heavy-Gauge Steel Prowess**

– Imbued with the indomitable resilience of heavy-gauge steel, this appliance guarantees a protracted tenure of unswerving dependability.
– Its 12-inch all-terrain pneumatic wheels traverse diverse landscapes with aplomb, underpinned by dual foot brakes that perpetuate safety and operational stability.

**Efficiency through Swift Assembly**

– Presented within a fortified, purpose-designed carton, this paragon of convenience necessitates only a modicum of assembly.
– In no time at all, you will embark on the expeditious elimination of yard waste, irrespective of its scale.

**The Quintessence of Shredding Efficacy**

-Elevation awaits your landscaping and horticultural enterprises, as this innovation ushers in an era of unmitigated performance and unwavering durability.
– Elevate your outdoor initiatives to unprecedented heights with this emblem of efficiency.

**Your Opportunity Beckons**

If you are in search of a superlative Wood Chipper for Sale, look no further. Secure the Raptor 900 Wood Chipper today and initiate a journey marked by the seamless transformation of wood into mulch. Revolutionize your outdoor tasks, yielding results that exemplify excellence and expeditiousness.

The new Hercules Series, 65 Ton Log Splitters from Brauma-Ag, has arrived in Australia. They have rapidly become the most popular engine-driven log splitters on the market. The 65 Ton Hercules series is the most powerful in the Baumr-AG lineup, and it comes with a slew of innovative features that set it apart from the competition.

The petrol-powered HPS800 rips Gum and Ironbark logs into quarters at the touch of a lever

Making easy work of the toughest Australian hardwoods. The HPS800 is a multifunctional and easy-to-use system. In turn, It splits wood horizontally and vertically, so you don’t have to lift heavy logs onto the splitter. Its replaceable 4-Way head separates four wood blocks from a single log and comes mounted without fixed fasteners for quick wedge style swapping.

The practical working table provides ample workspace and storage for numerous timbers, and it is removable, allowing the device to reduce in size for better storage.

Large power train

Furthermore, the power train of the massive 420cc 18HP four-stroke engine features a novel DirectDrive technology for maximum efficiency, low vibration, and minimum maintenance. The HPS800’s quality all-terrain 16-inch extra-wide rubber tyres make it very transportable in all types of terrain, allowing you to split wood nearly anywhere.

1	18hp four-stroke petrol engine that leads the class
2	Log splitting with a diameter of up to 650mm*.
3	The 65-tonne punch can rip through any timber.
4	Hydraulic hosing with two lines by Benmar®
5	Ingenious spiral For ultimate durability, use HoseGuardTM.
6	DirectDrive is a patented technology that eliminates vibration and requires no maintenance.
7	Welding robots have been used in the manufacture
8	Extra-large oil filter for maximum protection
9	Splitting head with a replaceable four-way wedge is triple-reinforced.
10	Fixed heavy-duty stripper

The only splitters on the market with a genuine Australian (non-US type) 50mm Trailer Coupling and a heavy-duty fixed stripper to remove any wood adhered to the wedge during the return cycle are Hercules splitters. They also have a substantial foldaway Jockey Wheel with a built-in DualAction Foot operated brake that prevents rolling or pivoting.

On the HPS800, there are just two genuine Benmar® hoses. With Baumr-unique AG’s HoseGuardTM encasing them, these are the pinnacle of hydraulic hoses. This one-of-a-kind spiral design keeps the hoses in place, preventing them from interfering with controls and offering an extra layer of protection, especially when towing.

The HPS800 has a bigger oil filter, which not only protects your investment but also makes replacing it at any car accessory store much more effortless.

The Hercules HPS800 from Baumr-AG is the industry’s apex

Capable of splitting timbers up to 650mm in diameter and even Styrofoam! Nothing beats having the best equipment on hand to get the job done swiftly.
Make an excellent investment in machinery for your home or business.