Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL): Your Complete Property Owner’s Guide
Picture this: it’s late spring, the winds are picking up, and you’re staring at your property—wondering if it’s really ready for bushfire season. Or maybe you’re the crew leader out on the fireground, sizing up homes with different bush settings and trying to prioritise protection. That’s when the term Bushfire Attack Level (or BAL) starts to matter more than ever.
If you’re a homeowner, renter, business owner, or even part of an emergency team, understanding BAL can feel confusing—sometimes even overwhelming. But the good news is, a bit of knowledge goes a long way. Knowing your property’s BAL rating isn’t just a tick-box for council approval—it’s about real, practical safety for you, your family, and even your crew.
This guide will break down what BAL means, why it matters, and how you can use it to make your place safer—whether you live in the suburbs, on a bush block, in a rental, or help out on the fireground. You’ll find relatable stories, advice for every situation, and some lesser-known tips picked up from years of Australian fire seasons. We’ll cover preparation, mistakes to avoid, and even support for renters, pet owners, and older Aussies.
For those building or renovating, or anyone worried about a property’s risk, understanding BAL is a must-have skill. Let’s make it simple—and maybe a bit less stressful.
Before we dive in, it’s always wise to keep a First Aid Kit on hand during fire season—at home, in the shed, or in the car. It’s a small investment that can make a big difference if things go sideways.
What is Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) and Why Does It Matter?
BAL stands for Bushfire Attack Level. It’s a measure used across Australia to assess how much your home, business, or property is likely to be impacted by a bushfire. BAL is based on how close you are to bushland, what the vegetation is like, how steep the land is, and other factors. It’s designed to give you a realistic idea of how intense a bushfire could be at your location.
BAL isn’t just a bureaucratic hurdle for builders or property buyers. It directly affects how you need to build, renovate, maintain, and protect your place. It tells you the likely level of heat, ember attack, and flame contact your building could face during a bushfire. Higher BAL means higher risk—and more steps you’ll need to take to stay safe.
For firefighters and emergency teams: Understanding BAL helps you plan your response, prioritise resources, and communicate risks clearly to residents. It’s not just a planning tool—it’s an on-the-ground safety factor.
Whether you’re buying, building, renting, or just want peace of mind, knowing your BAL rating puts you in control. Let’s break down the different BAL categories and what they really mean for everyday Aussies.
The BAL Ratings—What Each Level Means For You
BAL-LOW
Minimal risk from bushfire. No special construction requirements. But: doesn’t mean “no risk”—spot fires, smoke, or embers can still reach even “low” areas in a bad season.
BAL-12.5
Low risk. Some embers, light radiant heat. Needs basic bushfire protection: metal screens, seals, safer decks, clear gutters, simple fire plan.
BAL-19
Moderate risk. Increased ember attack, moderate radiant heat. Upgraded windows, external walls, and doors often required. At this level, a basic fire kit and evacuation plan are vital.
BAL-29
High risk. Intense radiant heat, more ember attack, possible flame contact. Homes need serious upgrades—toughened glass, metal mesh, fire-resistant cladding, and careful landscaping. Plan evacuation routes early.
BAL-40
Very high risk. Extreme radiant heat, heavy embers, high chance of direct flame. Only tough, bushfire-specific building methods allowed. At this level, leaving early is usually the safest plan in a fire event.
BAL-FZ (Flame Zone)
Maximum risk. Direct exposure to flames, extreme heat, highest building standards required. Often, this means special windows, steel mesh, non-combustible materials, and a robust evacuation plan. Many fire crews will avoid direct defence in these zones during peak fire activity for safety.
How is BAL Calculated? Understanding the Process
BAL is worked out by looking at how far your home is from bushland (not just trees—grasses, scrub, or even “overgrown” reserves count), the type and density of vegetation, and how steep the slope is around you. Steeper slopes = faster, hotter fires.
Key BAL calculation factors:
• Distance to bushland
• Vegetation type (forest, scrub, grassland, garden)
• Slope of the land
• Local fire weather (historic data)
Most people use a certified BAL assessor, especially for building or renovating. But even if you’re not building, knowing your likely BAL can help you decide how hard to go with bushfire proofing, gear, and planning.
Common mistake: Many homeowners assume “urban edge” properties are BAL-LOW, but local parks, creeks, and even thick gardens can bump up the risk. It’s always worth checking.
What Should You Do Once You Know Your BAL?
For homeowners: Use your BAL rating as a starting point for all your bushfire prep. Even if you’re not required to upgrade your house, simple changes—like clearing leaves, adding metal screens, sealing gaps, and updating your emergency kit—can make a big difference.
For renters: You can’t change the building, but you can reduce fuel (leaves, grass), plan exit routes, talk with your landlord, and have a “grab-and-go” kit. If you’re not sure, ask about the property’s BAL rating before signing a lease.
For fire crews and emergency teams: BAL guides your property assessment, crew safety, and which homes can be protected when things turn bad. BAL-29 and above? Have backup plans and rethink direct defence if conditions get dangerous.
If you’re not sure about your BAL, check your council documents, property plans, or engage a local expert. Some states and territories also have free mapping tools—look for government resources.
For families with young kids, people with pets, or anyone with special needs, knowing your BAL helps you plan for extra time and gear—like packing pet crates, medications, or mobility aids in advance. Don’t leave it until fire season.
Building, Renovating, and Buying with BAL in Mind
If you’re building or renovating, BAL directly affects what you can (and must) do—from the choice of windows, roof, cladding, and decks to the little things like vents and seals. Higher BAL = higher build costs, but also a safer home.
Lesser-known tip: Renovations or additions—like a new shed, fence, or carport—often trigger BAL rules, even if the main house is older. Double-check before you start.
When buying, always ask for the BAL report. It might change your insurance, building plans, or even what you’re willing to pay. If the property borders bush, creek, or thick gardens, it’s worth a second look.
If you’re not sure about a builder or BAL assessor, check for reviews and make sure they understand local conditions—not just the paperwork.
Common Mistakes, Little-Known Tips, and Lessons from the Field
Mistake #1: Ignoring “low” or “moderate” BAL properties. Spot fires and embers can travel far—even “safe” areas can be impacted in severe weather.
Mistake #2: Not cleaning gutters, under-deck areas, or sheds. Even new homes built to high BAL standards can burn if fuel builds up nearby.
Mistake #3: Over-relying on last-minute firefighting gear. Even on the fireground, hoses and pumps are only as good as the crew’s planning and escape routes. Same goes at home—don’t wait until smoke is overhead to pack your bag or check your plan.
Tip: Have a written plan. Most people can’t think clearly under stress—even experienced crews double-check each other. Put your plan on the fridge, in the glovebox, or on your phone. (You can download a printable bushfire plan from government sites or our Family Bushfire Emergency Plan Template.)
From the fireground: Even seasoned firefighters are caught out by changing wind, falling branches, or poor communication. The more you understand your surroundings and BAL, the more prepared you—and your team—will be.
At Home, On the Fireground, and In the Community—What Works
At home: Regularly tidy up around the house, keep an emergency kit handy, and update your bushfire plan every year—ideally before summer. Make sure everyone (kids, grandparents, visitors) knows the drill.
On the fireground: Crews should always check the property’s BAL and factor it into their approach—especially with changing conditions or limited resources. Communicate clearly, check gear before the shift, and always have a safe exit planned. If in doubt, pull back—property can be replaced, people can’t.
In the community: Share what you’ve learned with neighbours, renters, or local groups. Often, the people most at risk are those least connected. Drop off a plan, check in before high-risk days, or host a “prep afternoon.” Small steps save lives.
Don’t forget pets: Have a safe spot, food, water, leash/carrier ready. Fires can move fast—don’t waste time searching for a cat or dog at the last second.
Quick Planning and Packing Guide (For All BAL Ratings)
- Keep a copy of your BAL report, bushfire plan, and local emergency contacts handy.
- Have an emergency kit: torch, batteries, first aid kit, masks, radio, medications, water, snacks, pet supplies.
- Test smoke alarms and check outdoor hoses before summer.
- Practice your exit plan—especially with kids, elderly, or anyone needing help.
- Back up important documents (digital or printed).
- Update insurance for your risk level and property changes.
- Know your local fire danger ratings—check your local fire warnings regularly (ABC Emergency Bushfire Warnings).
Where to Find Help and More Information
For official information, guidance, and downloadable bushfire plans, always use trusted sites—like your state’s fire authority, council, or Australian Standard AS3959. Our How to Prepare for a Bushfire guide covers more on risk reduction and planning for all Aussies, with extra info for families, renters, and rural properties.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to upgrade my home if my BAL rating is low?
Not always, but don’t ignore simple fixes. Even in BAL-LOW areas, spot fires and embers can pose a risk—upgrading screens, clearing debris, and keeping a kit handy is smart for all Aussies.
Can I still rent or buy in a BAL-40 or Flame Zone area?
Yes, but expect strict building rules, higher insurance, and real risks. Always have a written plan and consider your options carefully—especially if you or your loved ones have special needs.
Do firefighters use BAL when responding to bushfires?
Absolutely. Crews use BAL to assess property risk, prioritise which places to defend, and keep their own teams safe. Knowing the BAL can also help homeowners communicate clearly with emergency services.
How can I find out my property’s BAL rating?
Check your building documents or council files first. If you’re not sure, search for “BAL assessment” in your state or ask your local fire authority. Some areas have free online tools as well.
What if I’m a renter—can I still prepare for bushfire risk?
Definitely. Even if you can’t upgrade the building, you can clear debris, plan your exits, talk to your landlord, and pack a “go bag” with essentials for everyone in the household (including pets).
What’s the biggest mistake people make with BAL?
Assuming a low rating means no risk—or leaving upgrades, plans, and packing until the last minute. Bushfires don’t wait for perfect timing. Start early, get support, and keep your plan simple and visible.
Ready to take the next step?
Take five minutes now to check your BAL rating, update your bushfire plan, or share this guide with your neighbours or local group. Every step helps—big or small.
Want a printable plan or more tips? Visit our Family Bushfire Emergency Plan Template for ready-to-use resources.
Introduction: Bushfire Risk in Australia and BAL Rating for my property?
Australia faces a formidable and worsening bushfire threat. In recent decades, extreme bushfires have devastated communities – for example, the 2009 Black Saturday fires in Victoria killed 173 people, and the 2019–20 “Black Summer” fires burned 12 million hectares of land, destroyed over 3,100 homes, and claimed 34 lives (Bushfire protection | Your Home). Climate change is driving hotter, drier conditions that make bushfires more frequent and intense. As temperatures rise, areas once considered safe are increasingly at risk of fire, and even suburbs and cities may face bushfire threats under extreme conditions.
In this context, improving the resilience of buildings to bushfire is critical for saving lives and property. Studies show that newer homes built with fire-resistant design features survive bushfires far better than older homes. In California and Australia alike, houses constructed to modern fire standards are more likely to withstand fire than those built decades ago without such measures. Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) ratings are a cornerstone of Australia’s approach to building for bushfire resilience. The BAL system, defined in the Australian Standard AS 3959: “Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas”, provides a consistent framework to gauge bushfire risk for a specific site and to tailor building requirements accordingly (Bushfire areas and overlays | Victorian Building Authority). In simple terms, a property’s BAL is an assessment of how much bushfire hazard (ember attack, radiant heat, flame contact) the site is likely to experience in a worst-case scenario, which then dictates how the building must be constructed for safety (Bushfire areas and overlays | Victorian Building Authority).
The BAL rating of a home has become increasingly important. Many Australian states now require a BAL assessment as part of any new development or significant renovation in designated bushfire-prone areas. By assigning one of six BAL categories (from LOW to Flame Zone), regulators ensure homes in risky areas are built with appropriate fire-resistant materials and design features. This improves the chances that the structure can withstand a bushfire long enough to protect occupants sheltering inside while the fire front passes. Crucially, a well-built, BAL-compliant house can survive without active intervention, as evidenced by real-world cases. For instance, during the 2020 fires in NSW, a newly built home constructed with a “no-gaps” approach and non-combustible materials survived an intense bushfire with no internal damage, even though the surrounding forest was scorched. The house remained cool and smoke-free inside – essentially airtight against embers – and stood virtually unscathed due to its BAL-focused design choices (No smoke, no ash: here’s how one house survived the fires).
This guide provides an in-depth exploration of “BAL rating for my property” – explaining what BAL ratings mean, how they are determined, and how they impact building design, costs, and safety. It serves as a resource for fire service professionals, builders, homeowners, and academics alike. We will cover the science of bushfire attack mechanisms and why measures like ember-proofing are so important. We’ll break down the Australian BAL system under AS 3959 – from BAL-LOW through BAL-FZ (Flame Zone) – and outline the construction requirements at each level and the expected bushfire conditions. You’ll learn how BAL assessments are conducted, including the key factors of vegetation, slope and distance that determine your property’s rating. Importantly, we’ll discuss how to get your property assessed and the role of accredited bushfire assessors in producing BAL reports for building or planning approvals.
Understanding BAL Ratings: Protecting Homes from Bushfire Threats
Beyond the technicalities, this guide also offers practical insight into what a BAL rating means for you as a homeowner or builder. Higher BAL ratings can impose stricter (and costlier) building requirements – we’ll examine those implications on design, materials and budget. You’ll find practical guidance on building or retrofitting for bushfire resilience, from choosing non-combustible materials and sealing gaps, to managing vegetation around your home. We include real-world case studies (with a focus on Victoria and NSW) that illustrate successes and challenges in building to survive bushfires. For example, we highlight how homes built to current standards fared better in recent fires, and how community-level planning (like the Bushfire Management Overlay in Victoria or NSW’s Planning for Bush Fire Protection guidelines) helps reduce risk (Building for bushfire).
Finally, we look toward the future – exploring emerging technology in BAL assessment (such as the use of LiDAR remote sensing for fuel load mapping (LiDAR used to survey bushfire fuel loads – Spatial Source), the incorporation of indigenous fire management knowledge (cultural burning) to reduce landscape fuel hazards, and how climate change adaptation might require evolving our building standards and planning strategies. By the end of this guide, you should have a thorough understanding of BAL ratings – not just as a regulatory box to tick, but as a concept that could save your home and your life in a bushfire.
In summary, bushfire risk is a fact of life in Australia’s environment, but through the BAL system and informed action, we can greatly improve the odds of survival. Whether you’re a firefighter evaluating community safety, a builder or architect designing a home, a homeowner looking to protect your family, or an academic studying disaster resilience, understanding BAL ratings is essential. The following sections will equip you with that knowledge in detail – from the basics of bushfire science to the nitty-gritty of construction requirements and the broader policy landscape.
Understanding Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL)
What is a BAL Rating?
Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) is a risk metric that represents the severity of a building’s potential exposure to bushfire hazards – primarily ember attack, radiant heat, and direct flame contact. Formally, BAL is defined in increments of expected radiant heat flux (in kilowatts per square meter) that a future house might experience in a bushfire. The higher the BAL, the greater the bushfire intensity the site is likely to face, and therefore the more robust the construction needs to be. The BAL rating system was established by Australian Standard AS 3959 and is incorporated into the National Construction Code as the deemed-to-satisfy solution for building in bushfire-prone.
In simpler terms, think of BAL as a measure of fire hazard at your building site. It takes into account how close your home is to bushfire fuels (like forests or grasslands), what type of vegetation is around, how steep the terrain is, and the expected fire weather severity (Fire Danger Index) for the region (Bushfire areas and overlays | Victorian Building Authority). Using these inputs, a BAL assessment predicts the likely bushfire attack mechanisms your house must endure – such as flying embers, radiant heat levels, and possibly flames – and quantifies it as one of six categories (BAL-LOW, 12.5, 19, 29, 40, or Flame Zone). Each BAL category corresponds to a range of radiant heat exposure in kW/m² and a description of the anticipated attack intensity. For instance, BAL-12.5 means a site could experience up to 12.5 kW/m² of heat (a relatively low level), primarily from embers, whereas BAL-FZ (Flame Zone) means direct flame contact and >40 kW/m² of heat are likely – an extreme scenario.
The purpose of assigning a BAL is to improve building resilience.
By knowing the expected level of bushfire attack, builders can choose appropriate materials and design features to mitigate those risks. AS 3959 prescribes specific construction requirements for each BAL to “harden” the house against fire – for example, using tougher glass in windows, sealing gaps where embers could penetrate, or using non-combustible cladding and roofing. The aim is to give the building a fighting chance to withstand a bushfire, thereby offering greater protection to occupants sheltering inside while the fire front passes. As the Victorian Building Authority explains, the residential bushfire construction standard “aims to improve the ability of a building to withstand a bushfire attack,” thus providing greater safety for people during a fire.
It’s important to note what a BAL rating doesn’t guarantee. A BAL-rated design significantly reduces the risk of ignition, but no construction can be 100% fireproof under all conditions. Extreme bushfires can overwhelm even well-built homes, especially if maintenance is poor (e.g. excessive fuel build-up around the house) or if fire conditions exceed those assumed in the standards. AS 3959 itself cautions that its measures “cannot guarantee that a building will survive a bushfire event on every occasion,” given the unpredictable nature of fire and extreme weather (What is the Bushfire Attack Level — Bushfire Attack Level Toolbox). Nonetheless, evidence strongly shows that buildings constructed to the BAL requirements have far better survival rates. Fire authorities observed that homes built to current bushfire standards “performed far better” than older homes in the 2019–2020 fires (Building for bushfire). The improved design buys crucial protection time and often prevents minor ignitions from turning into house-destroying fires. For example, ember-resistant vents and screens can stop the most common cause of house loss – wind-blown embers – from entering the roof or walls and starting a blaze.
In summary, a BAL rating encapsulates the bushfire risk at your property and sets the baseline for how you must build or retrofit. It is measured by potential heat exposure (kW/m²) and ranges from “Low” risk (no special construction required) up to “Flame Zone” (extreme risk, highest construction standards). BAL not only influences building design but also has regulatory teeth: councils and building surveyors will require compliance with BAL-specific construction before approving projects in bushfire-prone areas. Understanding your BAL is thus crucial whether you’re planning a new home or evaluating the safety of an existing one.
BAL Categories Under AS 3959: Levels of Bushfire Intensity
AS 3959 defines six BAL categories, each corresponding to a different intensity of bushfire exposure and requiring commensurate construction measures. These range from BAL-LOW, where risk is minimal, through incrementally higher levels (BAL-12.5, 19, 29, 40), up to BAL-FZ (Flame Zone), which is the highest risk. The table below summarizes the BAL levels, the radiant heat exposure they represent, and a description of the expected bushfire attack at each level:
Table: BAL Categories, Radiant Heat Exposure, and Predicted Bushfire Attack
BAL Level | Radiant Heat (at building) | Description of Bushfire Attack & Exposure |
BAL-LOW | 0 to <12.5 kW/m² | Very low risk. Radiant heat is negligible, so no special construction requirements are mandated. Ember attack can still occur, but overall threat is minimal ([Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL) Explained |
BAL-12.5 | ≤ 12.5 kW/m² | Low risk. Primarily subject to ember attack with small amounts of radiant heat. The risk of direct flame contact is very low. Construction at this level is aimed at ember protection (e.g. screening openings) since embers are the main threat ([Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL) Explained |
BAL-19 | >12.5 to 19 kW/m² | Moderate risk. Increasing levels of ember attack and burning debris ignited by embers, with some radiant heat exposure. Flames likely still kept at a distance. Construction measures ramp up: tighter ember sealing and use of materials that can tolerate moderate heat without igniting ([Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL) Explained |
BAL-29 | >19 to 29 kW/m² | High risk. High likelihood of ember attack and windborne debris, and substantial radiant heat exposure. The house may be fairly close to heavy vegetation. More robust construction is needed (e.g. tougher glazing, less combustibles) to withstand higher heat flux and ember bombardment ([Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL) Explained |
BAL-40 | >29 to 40 kW/m² | Very high risk. Very intense ember attack and heavy radiant heat, with some probability of direct flame contact on the building ([Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL) Explained |
BAL-FZ (Flame Zone) | >40 kW/m² plus direct flame contact | Extreme risk. This is effectively the fire front zone. The building is likely to face direct exposure to flames from the bushfire in addition to extreme radiant heat and ember attack ([Bushfire Attack Levels (BAL) Explained |
Each higher BAL includes and builds upon the requirements of the lower BALs. For example, ember protection (screens on windows, covered weepholes, sealed eaves) is a fundamental requirement starting even at BAL-12.5 As you go up to BAL-29 and BAL-40, the acceptable materials get more restricted – for instance, at BAL-29 some fire-retardant timber might still be used in parts, but by BAL-40 virtually all exterior cladding must be non-combustible (like fiber-cement or metal) (Why BAL-FZ Compliance Costs More Than Other BAL Ratings). By BAL-FZ, the standards demand what is effectively a non-combustible envelope for the house: brick, concrete, or earth walls; metal or tile roofing (with no gaps); toughened glass or metal shutters on all windows; steel screens, etc.
The Victorian Building Authority provides an identical breakdown of these BAL levels and emphasizes that even at BAL-LOW, ember attack is still possible, hence new buildings in bushfire zones are usually required to at least meet BAL-12.5 standards. In fact, in Victoria all new homes in a designated bushfire prone area must be built to a minimum of BAL-12.5, even if the site technically assesses as BAL-LOW. This policy reflects a precautionary approach, acknowledging that minimal ember-protection features (like sealing roofs, doors, windows and adding screens) are prudent because embers can occur almost anywhere during a bushfire.
To give a sense of what these abstract heat flux numbers mean: radiant heat of 12.5 kW/m² (the upper end of BAL-12.5) might scorch paint and cause some materials to weaken, but is unlikely to instantly ignite things – it mainly threatens a house via embers finding a weakness. At 40 kW/m² (upper end of BAL-40), materials can ignite much more readily from heat alone and any small breach can let flames in – hence the heavy-duty construction at that level. Above 40 kW/m² (Flame Zone), unprotected materials will ignite almost immediately; thus only very fireproof assemblies can survive that onslaught, and even they are tested to hold out for a certain time rather than indefinitely. In BAL-FZ areas, design might even incorporate active defenses (though not mandated by AS 3959, some owners add sprinkler systems, etc., as an extra layer).
It’s worth noting that BAL ratings are determined for planning/building purposes with assumed worst-case conditions (e.g., drought-dry vegetation, severe fire weather). They do not change day-to-day; a BAL rating is a property attribute, not a forecast. However, if the environment around the house changes (for example, vegetation grows back thicker, or you clear trees), the BAL could change upon reassessment. For rebuilding in recently burnt areas, authorities recommend assessing BAL based on the likely future vegetation (after regrowth), not the temporarily reduced fuel loads just after the fire. This ensures rebuilds are future-proofed for when the bush regenerates and the hazard returns.
To visualize the concept:
imagine a house located at various distances from a forest. The house closest to the treeline would be in Flame Zone (risk of flames directly hitting it). A bit further back, maybe flames won’t hit but radiant heat is still very high (BAL-40). At more distance, heat drops to high or moderate (BAL-29 or 19), and far out on the perimeter of the bushfire-prone area, the heat is low (BAL-12.5 or BAL-LOW). Meanwhile, embers can travel far ahead of the fire, so even the house on the outer edge can experience embers (the “extent of ember attack” often extends well beyond where flames or severe heat reach). The diagram below conceptually illustrates this gradient of bushfire impact and corresponding BAL zones:
Visualization of Bushfire Attack Levels with increasing distance from bushfire prone vegetation. Higher BALs (right next to the bushfire source on the left) indicate very high to extreme risk, requiring significant construction measures, whereas at Low BAL (far right) the risk is minimal. Ember attack (small burning debris) can occur across all zones, but radiant heat and flame contact dominate the higher BAL categories.
As shown above, BAL-FZ and BAL-40 represent the very high risk zone close to the bush (with very high construction cost and effort), BAL-29 and 19 are moderate zones, BAL-12.5 is low, and BAL-LOW is negligible risk requiring no special building features. In practice, if your property is assessed as BAL-FZ or BAL-40, you are extremely close to heavy vegetation – likely within 10–20 meters of thick forest – and you must build a fortress-like house or create more separation to reduce the BAL. Many planning schemes will actually try to avoid allowing new homes in flame zone altogether, if possible, by requiring setbacks or vegetation management to bring the BAL down to 29 or less (we’ll discuss this in the planning section).
In summary, the BAL categories provide a graduated scale of bushfire severity and dictate the resilience built into the house. They are the language by which builders, regulators, and fire authorities communicate the bushfire risk and the required protective measures. Next, we will see how exactly these BAL ratings are determined for a given site.
How BAL Ratings Are Determined
Determining the BAL for a property involves a systematic assessment of the site and its surroundings. The process is codified in AS 3959 (and mirrored in state fire planning guidelines) and essentially boils down to evaluating a few key factors: Fire Danger Index (FDI) for the locality, the vegetation type around the site, the distance from the site to each vegetation patch, and the slope of the land (which affects fire behavior) (Bushfire areas and overlays | Victorian Building Authority). Using these inputs, one consults a set of tables or formulas in AS 3959 to find the appropriate BAL category.
In straightforward cases, a simplified method (known as Method 1 in AS 3959) is used, which involves five steps:
- Determine the relevant Fire Danger Index (FDI) – This is a measure of worst-case fire weather for your region (temperature, humidity, wind, drought factor). AS 3959 provides default FDI values: for example, much of Victoria, NSW and SA use FDI 100 (representing extreme fire weather), while some milder or alpine regions use FDI 80 or 50. The higher the FDI, the more severe a fire’s behavior, and thus the higher the BAL for a given set of conditions. In most high-risk parts of Australia, FDI 100 is assumed as a conservative baseline.
- Identify the vegetation type(s) near the house – Vegetation is classified into categories such as Forest, Woodland, Shrubland, Scrub (Mallee/Mulga), Rainforest, Grassland, etc., as defined in AS 3959. Each veg class has a characteristic fuel load and burning behavior. For instance, tall eucalypt forest presents a much greater threat (more intense fire, taller flames, lots of embers) than open grassland (What is a BAL Assessment? – Learn the BAL Assessment basics.). If multiple vegetation types are present around different sides of the site, each sector is considered.
- Measure the distance from the building site to the vegetation – Specifically, the distance from the site (or from the building footprint) to the edge of the nearest classified vegetation in each direction. Distances are usually taken to the vegetation within 100 meters, since vegetation beyond 100 m is not considered in BAL calculations (it’s assumed to have negligible impact beyond that range under the standard) (LiDAR used to survey bushfire fuel loads – Spatial Source). The closer the vegetation, the higher the radiant heat exposure. There are distance thresholds in the tables that distinguish between BAL zones. For example, a site 25 m from forest might be BAL-40, whereas 35 m from the same forest might drop to BAL-29, etc., given the same slope and FDI.
- Determine the effective slope of land under the vegetation – Fire burns faster and hotter going uphill and slower downhill. So if your house is uphill from a vegetation patch (meaning the land under that vegetation slopes down towards you), the fire’s intensity at the house will be less (flames and heat go upward away from ground). If your house is downhill from the veg (fire will be burning uphill toward you), the fire will be more intense. AS 3959 considers slope classes (e.g. 0° flat, upslope, or downslope in ranges like 0–5°, 5–10°, etc.). “Upslope or flat” in relation to the vegetation (fire running downhill or on flat toward the house) is the least severe case; “downslope > 15°” (meaning the fire is climbing a steep slope toward the house) is very severe. Assessors measure or estimate the slope under each vegetation patch that leads to the site.
- Lookup the BAL from the tables or calculate via formula – AS 3959 provides tables (for Method 1) where you find the vegetation type, then cross-reference the distance and slope and FDI to find the resulting BAL. Essentially, for each vegetation type, there are distance thresholds for BAL-12.5, 19, 29, 40, FZ given a particular slope and FDI. For complex situations outside Method 1’s scope (e.g. very steep slopes >20°), a more detailed fire engineering calculation (Method 2) can be used, which computes radiant heat with formulas, but the factors considered are similar.
In practice, a BAL assessor will walk your site and carry out these steps. They will identify all vegetation within 100 m in all directions (often breaking it into “plots” of each vegetation type). They will measure the separation distance from the building location to each plot (sometimes done with a tape, laser rangefinder, or mapping tools). They will measure slopes, often using a topo map or an inclinometer. They also confirm the region’s FDI (usually known from regulations). Then, for each sector/plot, they determine the BAL that that particular vegetation would impose. The highest BAL among those (i.e. the worst case from any direction) is taken as the BAL for the site. This worst-case approach ensures the house is designed for the most severe exposure it could get.
For example
Suppose on one side of your block (north) there’s thick forest 50 m away on level ground, and on the other side (south) there’s sparse grassland 20 m away. The forest at 50 m might equate to BAL-29 under extreme weather, while the grassland at 20 m might equate to BAL-12.5 (grass fires, though fast, generate less radiant heat than forest fires). The overall BAL for your building would be BAL-29 – because the north side forest hazard is the limiting factor. Your construction must meet BAL-29 requirements all around, even on the south side where the immediate hazard is lower, to ensure uniform protection.
Vegetation exclusions: Not all vegetation counts toward BAL. AS 3959 excludes vegetation that is low-threat, like well-watered gardens, maintained lawns, orchards, isolated small patches under 1 hectare, or narrow strips along roads ([PDF] CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS – CFA). So, if your house is next to, say, a cultivated vineyard or a golf course fairway, those might be treated as low threat (BAL-LOW) for calculation purposes. Conversely, native bushland, pine plantations, etc., definitely count. The assessor must correctly classify vegetation according to the standard definitions; mistakes here can skew the BAL result. (In one case, misjudging scrub as grassland could under-report the risk.)
Assumed Fire Danger Index:
As mentioned, each region has a designated FDI for BAL calculations. Victoria and NSW generally use FDI 100 (a catastrophic fire weather scenario akin to Black Saturday conditions). Using this high benchmark builds in a safety margin. Some coastal or tropical areas might use FDI 80. The assessor will know which to apply from planning regulations or AS 3959 Appendix.
Outputs of the assessment:
After performing the above steps, the assessor will produce a BAL Assessment Report that documents the site conditions (vegetation types, distances, slopes, FDI) and states the determined BAL rating for the site (e.g. “BAL-19”). Often, a table or map is included showing each vegetation plot around the site and the interim BAL from each, to justify the worst-case selection. The report should reference the standard or methodology used and is typically signed by the accredited practitioner. This BAL report or certificate is then used to inform the building design and is usually required by the building surveyor or planning authority to approve the project.
It is possible to reduce a site’s BAL (and thus ease the construction requirements) by modifying the site environment before assessment or design. Two main ways to do this are: (a) increasing the distance from vegetation – for example, siting the house further from the hazard or clearing some vegetation to create a wider buffer; and (b) changing the vegetation type – for instance, replacing a stand of flammable scrub with low-threat landscaping (green lawn, fire-resistant plants) can remove that area from consideration or reclassify it as a lower threat. Assessors often advise clients on achievable measures to lower BAL. For instance, if your dream house site is 22 m from dense scrub (initially BAL-40), you might clear an extra 10 m of scrub (if permitted) to get a 32 m fuel-free zone, which could downgrade the BAL to 29 or 19, significantly reducing construction cost. Indeed, the concept of Asset Protection Zones (APZ) comes into play – this is a managed low-fuel area around a dwelling. If you ensure an effective APZ, your assessed BAL will reflect the distance to heavy fuel beyond that zone. As WA fire authorities note, ensuring the APZ is clear of fuels before assessment can avoid a higher BAL rating – essentially, doing some mitigation can pay off in both safety and compliance.
To illustrate determination in practice, consider a BAL assessment example: A site in the NSW South Coast has bushfire-prone woodland on a downslope. The assessor notes: FDI 100 (per NSW default), Vegetation: Woodland (medium trees, some understory), Distance: 30 meters from the house site to the treed area, Slope: land slopes downwards 10° from the vegetation to the site (i.e. fire would burn uphill 10° toward the house). Plugging these into AS 3959’s table for Woodland vegetation at FDI 100, downslope 5–10°, and distance 30 m, the result might be BAL-29 (for example). If the distance were only 20 m, it might come out BAL-40. If the slope were gentle or flat instead, maybe BAL-19 at 30 m. These thresholds are all documented in the standard.
It is highly recommended that a qualified or accredited bushfire assessor conduct the BAL determination. While the methodology might seem straightforward, there are nuances in vegetation classification and measurements that require expertise. An error could mean under-building (unsafe) or over-building (unnecessary cost). In several states (like NSW and WA), regulations actually mandate that a “suitably qualified” person (often accredited under a Bushfire Planning & Design scheme) provide the BAL assessment for certain developments. We will cover the role of these professionals next, along with how to obtain a BAL report for your property.
Getting a BAL Assessment for Your Property
If you are planning to build, renovate or purchase in a bushfire-prone area, obtaining a BAL assessment is a crucial early step. In many cases, it’s a legal requirement to have a BAL determined and incorporated into your building or development application. Here’s what you need to know about the process:
- Who conducts BAL assessments? In general, a BAL assessment should be done by someone with expertise in bushfire planning or building. Many are performed by accredited bushfire consultants or assessors, some of whom hold accreditation under the Fire Protection Association Australia’s BPAD (Bushfire Planning and Design) scheme. For instance, NSW Rural Fire Service recognizes BPAD-accredited practitioners (Levels 2 and 3) as suitably qualified to do BAL assessments and Bushfire Protection Plans (BPAD – Fire Protection Association Australia). These might be private consultants, firefighting agency staff, or experienced building surveyors with the requisite training. In Victoria, a BAL report may be prepared by a bushfire consultant as part of a planning permit in a Bushfire Management Overlay, or by a registered building surveyor for building permit stage. In Western Australia, recent guidelines “recommend the use of a BPAD accredited Bushfire Assessor to complete BAL assessments” (BAL’s for Individuals (Levels 1, 2 & 3) – Bushfire Prone Planning). The key is that the person must be competent in applying AS 3959 and the relevant state codes. While technically an owner or architect could use AS 3959 to self-assess, authorities will almost always require a signed report from an accredited professional for regulatory acceptance.
- When do you need a BAL assessment? Whenever you are building a new home or certain additions (like substantial extensions) in a designated Bushfire Prone Area, a BAL assessment will be required as part of the building permit or development approval process. If your property is shown on your state’s bushfire prone land map or (in Victoria) if it’s in a designated BPA or has a Bushfire Management Overlay, you definitely need one. Some councils even require a BAL assessment for other constructions like sheds or commercial buildings in bushfire zones. If you’re unsure, check with your local council or fire authority; but as a rule of thumb, if the planning scheme flags bushfire risk on your land, a BAL report is needed. It’s wise to do it early – ideally at site planning stage – so you can adjust the design if needed to a better BAL. Also, if you are buying a property or an existing house in a bushfire-prone area, you might voluntarily get a BAL assessment to understand the risk and potential retrofit needs (though it’s not mandatory for purchase, it’s good due diligence).
- What does an assessment involve on-site? Typically, the assessor will visit the property to take measurements and observe the surroundings. During the site visit, they will:
- Identify and map out the vegetation types around the site (within 100 m radius). They may take photos and notes of different areas (e.g. dense forest to the north, grass paddock to the south).
- Measure distances from the future building footprint to each vegetation plot. If the house location is not marked on the ground yet, they will measure from a known point or use the site plan.
- Check the topography – note the slope under each vegetation area relative to the building site. Sometimes this is done using a handheld device or by interpreting contour maps.
- Look for any shielding features – e.g., is there a large hill or solid fence that could partially shield the house from fire on one side? (AS 3959 has some provisions for shielding by solid screens, but generally these are not credited unless very specific criteria are met.)
- They will also note any existing modifications like cleared areas, landscaped gardens, etc., since that affects the classification.
After gathering data, the assessor does the analysis (often back in the office). Increasingly, digital tools and GIS are used to aid this process. There are software tools (like the Bushfire Attack Level Toolbox by Geoscience Australia or commercial BAL calculators) where you input vegetation, distance, slope and it outputs the BAL. Some consultants use high-resolution aerial imagery and LiDAR data to complement on-ground measurements, which can improve accuracy for large or complex sites. For example, a project in SA used airborne LiDAR to remotely calculate indicative BAL ratings for thousands of structures across a region, demonstrating a tech-driven approach to assessment. However, even with such tools, a ground truthing site visit is almost always required to verify conditions (The Crucial Role of Accurate Effective Slope Calculation in BAL …) – especially to correctly identify vegetation types and see any small local factors.
- The BAL Report: The final output is usually a written report or certificate. It will state the site address, date, assessor’s name and accreditation, and the determined BAL (e.g. “BAL-19”). It will describe the inputs – often listing each vegetation plot, its classification, the slope, distance, and the BAL outcome for that plot. Many reports include a diagram or aerial photo with the 100 m assessment area and sectors marked. The highest BAL will be clearly identified as the required rating for construction. Good reports will also list briefly the construction measures associated with that BAL (to inform the designer/owner what it implies). Sometimes recommendations are included, e.g., “If the few trees on the west are removed to increase defendable space to 35 m, the BAL could be reduced from 29 to 19” – though such changes would typically need re-assessment or agreement by authorities. The report should cite compliance with AS 3959 and any state planning documents (like NSW’s Planning for Bush Fire Protection 2019). This document is then submitted as part of the building permit application to demonstrate that the design will address the proper BAL. Some councils or certifiers also require an official BAL certificate form. For example, in NSW a standard form (often called a BAL Certificate) signed by a Level 3 BPAD assessor is needed for certain high-risk projects.
- Accreditation and approval: In high-risk cases (like building in Flame Zone, or building a subdivision in bushfire areas), the involvement of an accredited bushfire consultant is not just recommended but enforced. NSW law, for instance, requires that any development proposal in Flame Zone or certain integrated developments have a Bushfire Safety Authority from the RFS, which typically means a comprehensive report by a Certified Bushfire Practitioner. WA has a requirement that certain applications include a Bushfire Management Plan by an accredited Level 2 or 3 practitioner. Victoria’s BMO requires a Bushfire Management Statement addressing how the BAL and defendable space requirements are met – often prepared by a consultant and then reviewed by CFA. Thus, having the right professional do the assessment ensures smoother approvals. The assessor may also liaise with fire authorities if needed to justify their findings.
- Cost of a BAL assessment: This can vary with location and complexity. For a single dwelling on a simple site, engaging a consultant for a BAL report might cost a few hundred dollars up to around $1000. More complex sites or projects (like multi-lot subdivisions requiring a full bushfire management plan) can be a few thousand dollars. Compared to overall building costs, this is relatively small, and it’s a very worthwhile investment for safety. Additionally, some local governments or fire services offer BAL assessment services or at least guidance. Post-bushfire, there have been programs where assessors provide free or subsidized advice to those rebuilding (e.g., after the 2020 fires, NSW RFS engaged consultants to help fast-track BAL assessments for rebuilds.
- What if my BAL seems too high? Upon getting a BAL assessment, some owners are concerned if, say, they receive BAL-FZ or BAL-40, because they know it will mean expensive construction or even difficulty getting approval. If you find yourself in that situation, you have a few options:
- Design changes: See if you can adjust the building location on your land to increase distances or use more sheltered positions. Even moving a house site a short distance or to the other side of a ridge can change the BAL.
- Vegetation management: Work with local regulations to remove or modify vegetation to lower the risk. This often requires permission, especially if it involves native vegetation clearing. However, in designated building envelopes or around existing homes, usually creating a defendable space is allowed (with some limits). As noted, removing fuels within say 40m of the house can substantially reduce the BAL category.
- Shielding or engineered solutions: In some cases, a designer might propose a performance-based solution, like constructing a solid masonry wall on the exposed side as a radiant heat shield, or installing an active sprinkler system, to mitigate Flame Zone conditions. The Australian building code does allow “alternative solutions” if you can demonstrate they meet the performance requirements () (). This usually requires a fire engineer’s involvement and must be convincing to the building surveyor and fire authority. It’s not common for typical houses (most just follow the deemed BAL standard), but it’s a path if one must build in extreme conditions.
- In some cases, not building is considered: If the BAL is Flame Zone and you cannot reduce it, some planning authorities may not permit building at all due to safety concerns. For instance, new subdivisions often have to ensure each lot can site a house at BAL-29 or lower; otherwise the lot might be deemed unsuitable for development. This is more a planning stage consideration, though – if you already own a lot, they will try to work with you to make a safe build possible, but with potentially significant requirements.
Overall, getting a BAL assessment is about understanding your risk environment and the rules that come with it. It’s a fundamental step to ensure that if you’re building in a bushfire area, you do so with eyes open and with the necessary protective measures. The next section will delve into what those measures are – i.e., how different BAL ratings translate into concrete building design and construction requirements.
BAL Levels and Their Construction Requirements
Once you know your property’s BAL rating, the next step is ensuring that the building is constructed in accordance with the requirements for that BAL (as specified in AS 3959 and the NCC). The philosophy is straightforward: higher BAL = stronger defense needed. In practice, this means that as the BAL increases, the standards for materials, construction detailing, and design become progressively more stringent to resist ignition from embers, radiant heat, and flame. Let’s break down what each BAL level typically requires for a home’s construction and design. We’ll start from the lowest level:
BAL-LOW: No Special Requirements (But Stay Ember Aware)
BAL-LOW indicates the assessed risk is so low that specific bushfire construction measures are not deemed necessary. In BAL-LOW areas, one can build with conventional materials without the extra safeguards demanded by AS 3959 for higher BALs. There is effectively “no bushfire construction retrofit required” at this level. However – and this is important – BAL-LOW does not mean zero risk. Ember attack may still occur. For instance, a house on the fringe of a town might be BAL-LOW because it’s more than 100 m from continuous bushland; yet in a large wildfire, winds can carry embers well beyond 100 m, potentially causing spot fires or igniting debris on any property. So even BAL-LOW homeowners should practice basic fire-safe housekeeping (like keeping gutters clean, no firewood stacked against the house, etc.).
In some regions (notably Victoria), regulations mandate a minimum of BAL-12.5 construction for all new houses in a Bushfire Prone Area, effectively eliminating the use of true BAL-LOW standards for new builds. This means even if your site evaluates to BAL-LOW, you still have to incorporate the ember-protection measures of BAL-12.5 (as a precautionary principle). This policy arose after observations that houses with no ember protections were vulnerable even in what was considered low-risk zones.
Construction-wise, if you truly are allowed BAL-LOW, you have no additional requirements beyond the normal building code. But many professionals still suggest adopting a few simple measures voluntarily, given Australia’s propensity for embers:
- Metal flyscreens on windows/doors – inexpensive way to prevent embers from entering if a bushfire is in the area (this is a BAL-12.5 requirement, but useful for any home near bush).
- Non-combustible roof covering – most modern roofs are tile or metal anyway, which is good. Avoiding wooden shingles or similar is wise even if allowed.
- Keep the site maintained – since you don’t have construction mandates, maintenance of the vegetation and fuels around becomes your key risk reducer. Trim back any overhanging tree limbs, clear leaf litter, etc., to keep that risk low.
- Note that BAL-LOW does not trigger any special glazing or vent requirements. But some homeowners opt for upgraded aspects (like ember-proof vents) just for peace of mind.
BAL-12.5: Ember-Resistant Construction
BAL-12.5 is the first level where AS 3959 requires specific bushfire protection measures. It primarily addresses the risk of ember attack, as radiant heat at this level is considered low (≤12.5 kW/m²). Most homes lost in bushfires ignite from embers (small burning fragments) exploiting vulnerabilities – such as gaps in eaves, vents into roof spaces, unscreened windows, or combustible material on or near the house. Therefore, BAL-12.5 construction is all about keeping embers out and reducing easy ignition points.
Key BAL-12.5 construction requirements and strategies include:
- External wall materials: Can be common materials (weatherboard, fiber-cement, masonry, etc.), as long as the material or assembly is sturdy enough that embers impinging on it won’t readily ignite the wall. Most timber claddings are allowed at BAL-12.5, but they must be well sealed (no gaping joints).
- Roofing: Tiled roofs must be fully sarked (i.e., have a continuous non-combustible or fire-retardant membrane under the tiles) (Part 3.7.4 Bushfire Areas | NCC – National Construction Code) to prevent embers from entering at the tile gaps. Metal roofs need to be tightly fitted. Any gaps (at ridge capping, at eaves) should be sealed or screened. Plastic roof skylights or roof-mounted fibreglass elements are often not recommended unless tested for this BAL.
- Eaves, fascia and gutters: Eaves should be boxed in or lined with no gaps exposing the rafters. Gutter guards of non-combustible mesh are recommended to minimize leaf buildup and ember entry (though gutter guard isn’t a strict requirement until higher BALs, many people install them at BAL-12.5). Downpipes and gutters ideally metal. There’s no requirement to enclose the eaves at BAL-12.5 like there is at higher levels, but it’s good practice.
- Vents and weepholes: All vents (into the roof space or subfloor if any) must have mesh screens with a maximum aperture of 2 mm (typically stainless steel mesh) to stop embers. Weepholes in brick walls should be protected similarly. This is a simple but crucial requirement – unscreened vents have been the downfall of many houses in fires.
- Doors and windows: For BAL-12.5, you don’t necessarily need special bushfire-rated glass, but certain precautions apply. External doors (particularly sliding glass doors) should have weather strips or draught excluders at the base to prevent embers blowing in underneath . If a door has a large glass panel, it’s recommended the glass be safety glass (toughened) if within 400 mm of ground or deck, mainly to reduce risk of cracking under heat or impact from debris (this requirement kicks in explicitly at BAL-19 and above: 4mm toughened glass for exposed windows (, but at BAL-12.5 it’s still a good idea). At BAL-12.5, at least one layer of screens is required: either the window glazing itself must be toughened glass, or if not, then the window should have an ember screen (metal mesh) on the outside. In practice, most people just put aluminium flyscreens with steel mesh on all windows and say that meets the ember screening requirement – those screens keep embers from direct contact with the glass or frame.
- Decks and verandahs: Combustible decks are allowed at BAL-12.5, but any timber used ideally should be bushfire-resistant timber species or reasonably thick sections. AS 3959 lists certain hardwoods (like merbau, blackbutt, spotted gum, etc.) that are acceptable for use up to BAL-29 without additional treatment. These dense timbers are less likely to ignite from embers. It’s recommended to enclose the area under a deck or at least to screen it to prevent embers accumulating underneath (though enclosing subfloors doesn’t become mandatory until higher BALs, it can help at BAL-12.5). If decking has gaps between boards, keep them small (no more than 5-6mm) so embers don’t easily lodge – some standards say ≤3mm gaps is ideal.
- Subfloor: If the house is on stumps or piers (raised floor), at BAL-12.5 there’s no requirement to enclose the subfloor with non-combustible material (that requirement starts at BAL-29 for certain situations). However, any supporting posts or stumps should be non-combustible or timber of sufficient size. Often at BAL-12.5, timber posts are fine as long as they’re not too small (there are specs to ensure they don’t burn through quickly; usually >75mm thick is acceptable).
- Ancillaries: things like evaporative coolers on the roof must be fitted with ember screens at BAL-12.5 and above (since they can suck embers in). Also, gas bottles or fuel tanks should have clearance and be on the protected side or have shielding (general fire safety, not an AS 3959 requirement per se).
Overall, BAL-12.5 construction can look very “normal” – you can still have a timber-clad cottage with a timber deck – but it will have subtle differences: metal mesh on all the openings, better sealing of construction joints, possibly use of specific hardwoods or fire-resisting timbers rather than pine, and sarking under the roof. The goal is that an onslaught of embers for 10-15 minutes won’t find a weak point to start a fire in the house.
BAL-19: Increasing Ember and Heat Protection
BAL-19 calls for everything in BAL-12.5 plus a notch up in robustness, as the site could face moderate radiant heat (up to 19 kW/m²) in addition to heavy ember attack. The differences from BAL-12.5 are incremental but important in certain areas:
- Windows and Glazing: At BAL-19, any glazing (window or glazed door) that is exposed to potential heat must use toughened safety glass at least 5 mm thick. Standard annealed glass can shatter from the heat or flame impact; toughened glass has higher resilience. Also, the frames (if timber) need to have metal screens or shutters, because while the glass might hold, the frames could ignite or deform. So generally, operable windows will have an external metal mesh screen. Many people simply upgrade to aluminum or steel window frames with double-glazed units (which inherently have toughened outer panes) at this level, as it satisfies the requirements and improves energy efficiency too.
- External Doors: If using timber doors, they should be solid core with minimum thickness (often 35 mm thick timber) (Cost of building in a bushfire prone area Yarra Ranges Council). Weatherstripping at base is required (to seal gaps). If doors have glazing in them, that glass again must be toughened. Sliding glass doors should be toughened glass or have an appropriate screen door that is mesh screened.
- Walls and Cladding: Most cladding materials from BAL-12.5 are still fine, but you begin to see limitations on what’s allowed. Some thinner or less dense materials might no longer be okay. For example, thin PVC cladding would not be suitable (it could melt/ignite under 19 kW heat). Timber cladding is still allowed, but using bushfire-resisting timber species or having it over fire-rated sarking is recommended. Non-combustible claddings (fiber cement sheets, brick veneer, etc.) are always a safe choice and are commonly used starting at BAL-19 for extra margin.
- Roof: Same general requirements as BAL-12.5 (fully sarked, ember-proof), but with more caution to any plastic elements. Some plastic roof ventilators or cheap skylights that might have been okay at 12.5 may not survive the higher heat at 19. So metal components are preferred. Tiled roofs absolutely need sarking (which was already required at BAL-12.5).
- Eaves/Soffits: At BAL-19, it’s often required that eaves linings (soffit linings) be non-combustible (e.g., fiber cement sheet or fire-grade plywood) and that any gaps are sealed. In practice, most builders use fiber-cement eave lining which meets this easily. The junctions between roof and wall need to prevent ember entry – this was true at 12.5 but gets more attention at 19 because heat can cause more things to gap if not well constructed.
- Subfloors and Framing: If the subfloor is open (house on stumps), any supporting posts at BAL-19 usually must be non-combustible or certain treated timber. Often people will use steel or concrete stumps by this level. If you have timber stumps, they might need to be larger dimension or fire-protected. Many BAL-19 designs go for a slab-on-ground or enclosed subfloor to eliminate that vulnerability, although it might not be strictly mandated until BAL-29.
- Decking and attachments: At BAL-19, it is recommended to use either non-combustible decking boards (like metal, concrete, tiles) or bushfire-resisting timber for decks. While BAL-19 doesn’t outright forbid wood decks, it warns that they become riskier as heat flux increases. If using timber, sticking to the dense hardwoods listed in AS 3959 (like merbau, etc.) is a must – these can survive longer when exposed to embers and some heat. Also, decking should not wrap around into re-entrant corners where embers could accumulate heavily (design choice consideration).
- Gutters: Still need to be metal. Ember guards highly recommended. Some jurisdictions by BAL-19 require gutter guards or at least make them practically necessary because embers + dry leaves = fire.
- Services: Any gas pipes above ground, etc., should use metal components where they approach the house (plastic can melt from radiant heat). For example, a plastic water pipe coming out of the ground and into the wall should have protective lagging or be metal for the last section.
In summary, BAL-19 construction is moderately hardened: you see use of toughened glass, non-combustible linings, tighter sealing, and more fire-resistant materials. From an aesthetic standpoint, a BAL-19 house can still look like any other house – you can have weatherboard walls and a Colorbond roof – but under the skin it has those enhancements (sarking, screened vents, tough glass). The ember protection measures are essentially the same as BAL-12.5, but the radiant heat protection comes in via improved glazing and material choices. The homeowner at BAL-19 should also be mindful that while the house might stand up to the fire, what about attachments like fences, sheds, etc.? A common scenario is a BAL-19 house survives the fire front, but an adjacent wooden fence (not built to any standard) catches fire and then compromises the house afterward. So, one should also consider things like making nearest fences in metal or keeping them detached from the house.
BAL-29: High Risk – Strong Ember Protection and Material Restrictions
At BAL-29, the risk is classified as high – the house could be exposed to up to 29 kW/m² of radiant heat, along with intense ember attack and burning debris. Construction requirements at BAL-29 become notably more strict. The philosophy at this level is that many conventional building materials might fail under this level of heat, so choices start to narrow to more robust options. Key features of BAL-29 construction include:
- Exterior Walls: While timber cladding was allowed at lower levels, at BAL-29 the permitted wall materials become more limited. Typically, walls need to be made of non-combustible material (masonry, brick veneer, concrete, earth, metal cladding, fiber-cement boards, etc.), or if using timber or other materials, they must be tested or proven to resist ignition at that heat level. Many houses at BAL-29 will use brick veneer or cementitious cladding (like Hardie™ boards) for this reason. It’s possible to use fire-rated timber cladding (there are some products with fire-retardant treatment that comply), but generally not common pine weatherboards at this stage unless shielded. The standard does list some specific timber species that naturally have higher fire resistance which can still be used up to BAL-29 if certain thickness – e.g. spotted gum, red ironbark, merbau, turpentine and a few others are recognized bushfire-resisting timbers.
- Windows & Glazing: The requirements ramp up further. At BAL-29, all glass in exposed windows must be toughened glass, minimum 5 mm thick (or double glazed with the outer pane toughened). Additionally, window frames (if combustible) require a screened external shutter or mesh screen that meets certain specs. In practice, most builders will opt for aluminum-framed windows with 5mm toughened glass and fit them with stainless steel or bronze mesh screens. Some even go to double glazing for insulation benefits, but double glazing is not a requirement – the key is the outer pane is toughened. Doors with glazing also should have toughened glass. Skylights if plastic are no-go at this level – they should be made of toughened glass or at least have an external mesh cover.
- Doors (opaque): Solid core timber doors are still allowed, but they should be thicker (at least 35-40mm) and preferably fitted with a bushfire seal kit (intumescent seals that swell with heat to seal gaps, though those might be recommended more at BAL-40). Any gap under doors must be no more than 3mm or be sealed with draft excluders. Garage doors (if applicable) need weather seals at the bottom and sides to limit ember ingress.
- Roof: By BAL-29, one basically assumes the entire roof assembly must be very tight against embers and heat. Tiled roofs not only need full sarking but also fire stopping at the eaves and ridge (mortar or fire-rated foam to seal the usually open ends of tiled ridges, or use of special ridge caps). Metal roofs need to have all junctions fully sealed (e.g. scribed and sealed ridge caps, as in that case study house). No plastic components externally; even the roof ventilators should be metal and with ember-proof mesh. Eaves likely must be fully lined with non-combustible soffit and the junction to walls sealed. A common approach is just designing no eaves (flat or minimal eaves) to reduce complexity, but that’s a design choice.
- Subfloor: If the house is elevated, enclosing the subfloor with non-combustible material or shielding it is required at BAL-29 for any subfloor less than 400mm off ground that has any combustible supports. In simpler terms, if you have a timber stump house, you need to either enclose the base (e.g., brick or metal sheeting around perimeter) or use non-combustible stumps (like steel or concrete). Many at BAL-29 will just do a concrete slab foundation or ensure the subfloor is enclosed as part of design to meet this easily.
- Decks and verandahs: This is a big consideration at BAL-29. Exposed decks can ignite from embers + heat. The standard often requires that any decking within about 300mm of glazing or combustible wall be made of non-combustible material at BAL-29 (to reduce heat exposure to the wall). Generally, using non-combustible decking (e.g. composite fiber cement decking boards, metal decking, tile/concrete patios) is encouraged. Timber decks if used should strictly be of bushfire-resisting timber species. Even then, one has to consider parts like the deck framing beneath – ideally that would be non-combustible or protected. Many designs at this level opt for a masonry or concrete terrace instead of a timber deck, or they incorporate deck separation (a gap or step down) so the deck isn’t contiguous with the house. If attached, perhaps use a metal joist system with hardwood boards on top to minimize fuel.
- Attachments: things like pergolas, carports, etc., if attached to the house, need to be constructed of non-combustible materials at BAL-29 (or the part within a certain distance of the house needs to be). For example, a timber pergola connected to the house could bring fire to the house, so either make it metal or have a separation.
- Gutters and spouting: definitely metal only and strongly consider gutter guard. Some jurisdictions might even require leafless gutters by this level (since accumulated debris will ignite under 29 kW/m² easily).
- Insulation and membranes: There’s an often overlooked aspect – sarking or building wrap at BAL-29 must have a flammability index ≤ 5 (basically meaning if exposed it won’t catch fire easily). Most reflective foil sarking meet this; some cheap paper wraps might not. Also, insulation in walls or roofs should ideally be non-combustible (glasswool, rockwool are fine; some poly insulation could melt or burn, though if sealed behind non-combustible linings it’s usually okay).
- Ember Traps: BAL-29 expects that design avoids traps where embers can accumulate undetected. For example, complex roof valleys or a roof with many valleys and gullies can accumulate debris that embers ignite. Simpler roof designs (e.g. a hip roof with a uniform pitch) fare better. While design complexity isn’t regulated, the standard and fire services advise minimizing places where embers lodge () (). Diagrams from CFA show how re-entrant corners and complex roofs are ember traps and encourage improved designs (like deflecting ledges or simplifying shape) () ().
A BAL-29 house thus might look like: brick veneer or cement sheet exterior, Colorbond steel roof fully sarked and sealed, metal gutters with mesh, powder-coated aluminum windows with toughened double-glazing and mesh screens, a concrete slab-on-ground, a tiled or concrete patio instead of a timber deck, and fiber-cement eaves lining. Such a house would have a very good chance against a high-intensity ember storm and significant radiant heat. It might still suffer some damage (e.g., scorched paint, cracked skylight if any), but should remain standing and not be consumed by fire if all goes to plan.
BAL-40: Very High Risk – Highly Fire-Resistant Construction
BAL-40 is one step below flame contact level. At BAL-40, the house may be exposed to severe radiant heat (29–40 kW/m²) and possibly some flame impingement . The construction requirements here are quite stringent – approaching that of a full flame zone in many respects. The mindset at BAL-40 is that the house must withstand a short duration of direct flame exposure and high heat without igniting. Therefore, most materials must be non-combustible or tested to not fail at those conditions.
Major requirements and practices at BAL-40:
- Exterior cladding and walls: Must be non-combustible. This essentially rules out any timber or vinyl or other combustible siding. You’re looking at brick, concrete, stone, fiber-cement cladding, or fire-rated rendered boards, etc. Timber can only be used if it’s a specific tested system or species that can withstand BAL-40, which is rare (some treatments claim to, but generally, compliance means stick to non-combustible). Many BAL-40 homes are masonry or rendered lightweight concrete (AAC) block like Hebel, which has excellent fire resistance (as seen in that case study house which likely exceeded BAL-40 specs by using 250mm AAC blocks).
- Windows & Glazing: This is critical at BAL-40. All glazing must be toughened and with a minimum thickness (usually 6 mm toughened for BAL-40). Some standards also call for window frames to be metal (steel or aluminum) and for the frames to have minimal exposed combustibles (no wood beads, etc.). It’s strongly recommended, and often required, that windows exposed to potential flame be protected by bushfire shutters or screens that meet BAL-40 standards. There are proprietary fire shutters (rolling metal shutters, for example) that can be deployed and have been tested to withstand flame immersion. Alternatively, one can install specially tested BAL-40 rated windows – these are units that have been laboratory tested per AS1530.8.1 to not fail under BAL-40 conditions. These often include double-glazing with a tempered outer pane and specialized frame designs. In practice, many at BAL-40 use a combination: toughened double glazing plus a steel mesh screen over it. The mesh itself provides some shielding against heat and prevents direct flame contact on the glass.
- Doors: Solid core, non-combustible exterior surface (like a metal-faced door or solid timber door with metal covering). For a standard entry door, one might use a solid timber door but needs to ensure it has no gaps and consider adding a screen door that is metal mesh as a secondary protection. Sliding glass doors, French doors etc. must have toughened glass and usually need a bushfire shutter or fire-rated curtain if they are large expanses. Many BAL-40 designs avoid too much glazing to limit these complexities.
- Roof: Absolutely non-combustible roofing (usually metal or tile). Tiled roofs at BAL-40 can be problematic unless every tile gap is sealed; metal roof is simpler to get tight. The roof structure should also avoid exposed timber. Often, eaves must be enclosed with fire-resisting construction or skipped entirely. Any roof penetrations (vents, skylights, exhaust fans) must be fitted with non-combustible shrouds and ember meshes, and capable of not melting/burning at high heat. For example, a kitchen rangehood exhaust might need a metal self-closing flap or mesh at BAL-40.
- Eaves and subfloors: At BAL-40, generally no exposed timber anywhere on the exterior should be present. Eaves should be lined with non-combustible materials, and the eave construction should prevent fire entry (e.g., the junctions are fire-stopped). Subfloors if any must be enclosed by non-combustible skirts. Many BAL-40 houses are simply on concrete slabs or have fully enclosed perimeter foundations. If posts or columns are external, they should be steel or concrete (or large section timber clad with fire-protective material).
- Decks and verandahs: Typically, at BAL-40, timber decks are not allowed unless they have a non-combustible surface layer. AS 3959 would require that decking be non-combustible or made of a specific tested system. Most designers will use concrete paving, stone, or tiles for outdoor living areas at this level. If a deck must be timber for some reason, it would need to be one of the bushfire-resisting timbers of substantial size, and even then, any supporting structure under it should be non-combustible. It’s a big risk to have a wood deck in BAL-40 because it could ignite and then compromise the house structure.
- Attachments: The rule of thumb is anything attached to the house must not detract from its fire performance. So carports, awnings, etc. should be non-combustible. If you have a rainwater tank against the house, it should be metal (plastic tanks could melt).
- Ember sealing: The house must be sealed very tight. At BAL-40 embers plus high winds can literally be blasting the house. All those small gaps – under corrugations, around windows, at the wall joints – need to be sealed. Intumescent sealant (fire-resistant caulking) is often used to fill joints. The case study of the house that survived had exactly this approach: they filled every gap, even scribing ridge caps to fit snugly and using fire-retardant expanding foam in any crevices.
- Sprinkler systems (optional): While not required by AS 3959, some BAL-40 builds incorporate external sprinkler systems on the roof or eaves to wet down the structure when fire approaches. This can significantly improve outcomes, but it’s not a substitute for meeting the construction requirements. If installed, they should be done with reliable water supply (tank and pump) since mains water often fails during bushfires.
Essentially, BAL-40 construction leaves very little that can burn on the exterior of the house. The cost and complexity jump from BAL-29 to BAL-40 can be substantial. Builders have noted that going from BAL-29 to BAL-40 might add tens of thousands of dollars more (due to things like fire shutters, special glazing, etc.). For example, one report indicated building a particular home to BAL-40 instead of BAL-12.5 could add around $40,000–$50,000 in costs. This is why some owners try hard to reduce their BAL in planning – the difference between BAL-29 and BAL-40 in terms of cost and difficulty is significant.
Nonetheless, building to BAL-40 yields a house that is very resilient. These homes, if well maintained, have a strong chance of survival even in extreme bushfire scenarios. Anecdotal evidence from recent fires shows that houses built to BAL-40 (or the older equivalent) often survived almost unscathed while neighbors’ houses burned – simply because they resisted ember entry and didn’t ignite when intense heat passed over. In one account, a home constructed with Hebel block walls, steel roof, and minimized gaps (essentially a BAL-40+ design) survived a full firestorm with no internal damage and no ember incursions, validating the approach.
BAL-FZ (Flame Zone): Extreme Risk – “Fortress” Construction
BAL-FZ, or Flame Zone, is the highest level of bushfire attack, where the building is expected to face direct flame contact from the fire front, plus radiant heat in excess of 40 kW/m². At this level, the house essentially needs to be a fireproof shelter. The construction requirements of BAL-FZ are very onerous – akin to building a house to meet a fire resistance rating.
AS 3959 dictates that only materials that are non-combustible or tested to withstand flame zone conditions can be used for the building envelope. Many standard building elements won’t suffice unless augmented. Here’s what BAL-FZ typically entails:
- Walls: Walls must be made of non-combustible material with no gaps – e.g., solid masonry or concrete, or a tested system of fire-protected timber framing (like fire-rated plasterboard layers on the outside, etc.). Often, brick veneer with fire-grade sheathing on the frame can meet flame zone if properly detailed. However, simpler is double brick or concrete or AAC blocks. There are also proprietary wall systems (e.g. insulated concrete forms, pre-cast panels) that provide the required performance. Essentially, the wall should be able to withstand about 30 minutes or more of flame exposure without structural failure or fire penetration.
- Windows: Bushfire shutters are almost a necessity. The standard allows either a tested window system or a shutter system. Most regular windows, even toughened double-glazed, will likely break or have the frames ignite under flame contact if they aren’t shielded. So people either use metal shutters (rolling or swing) that can be closed when a fire approaches, or they invest in specially tested flame zone windows (these might be assemblies with toughened glass plus intumescent gel layers, etc., usually very expensive). A common solution is an aluminum or steel fire shutter that one closes over each window – these have been tested in labs to ensure the window behind doesn’t fail. It’s critical that shutters can be deployed even if you’re not home (some are automatic, triggered by heat). The case study house at BAL-FZ level in Mogo test facility used Warrior brand BAL-FZ shutters which performed well. If shutters are used, the materials must be non-combustible (metal). Mesh alone is not enough at Flame Zone; it needs a solid or specially treated barrier.
- Doors: Similar to windows, either a door assembly tested to BAL-FZ or an external shutter is required. Solid metal doors or timber doors with a fire-resistant core may be used. Garage doors need special attention – they are large and typically thin metal. They must have dense sealing to not let embers or flames in around the edges; in some flame zone designs, people design a brick firewall in front of a garage opening or avoid attached garages entirely.
- Roof: The roof must be fully non-combustible and constructed to prevent any flame ingress. Tiled roofs are generally not preferred in flame zone unless concrete tiles with complete fire-grade sarking and every gap sealed with fire-resistant material (since flames can otherwise penetrate). Metal roofs are better if every joint is sealed. Importantly, the roof structure beneath (trusses, etc.) ideally should also be non-combustible (steel roof framing perhaps), or at least protected by fire-grade plasterboard ceiling that can block fire from above. In some flame zone constructions, the roof is a concrete slab or has a sprinkler deluge system as added protection.
- Eaves: Eaves are typically eliminated or kept minimal in flame zone houses, because they are a weak point. If present, they must be constructed like a firewall – boxed in with fire-resistant materials and vented only with systems that won’t let fire in (often no vents at all in eaves for FZ).
- Subfloors: Definitely must be enclosed if off ground. Many flame zone houses just use a concrete slab foundation. Any underfloor space (like an elevated house) would need to be enclosed in fireproof material (e.g., brick curtain walls). No exposed timber stumps, no open crawl spaces.
- Attachments and Landscaping: In Flame Zone, even things like adjacent structures can ignite and threaten the house. The ideal flame zone design has a clear buffer (defendable space) around the house so that flames are not literally enveloping it – sometimes this can’t be helped if the vegetation is right at boundary, but one should try to keep immediate surroundings low-fuel (this is more of a planning condition: they often require a certain vegetation-free zone even if the site is flame zone, just the zone might be within neighbors etc.). Any structure within 10 meters should be non-combustible too – so if you have a shed next to the house, it should be a metal shed, otherwise it could collapse burning onto your house.
- Fire Shelters: Often at flame zone, people consider building a dedicated internal fire shelter or bunker in case someone is caught on site during a fire. There is an Australian Standard (AS 5414) for private bushfire shelters. While not a requirement, some flame zone property owners install a bunker as a last resort refuge, given the risk.
- Maintenance Systems: Many flame zone homes incorporate active protection: on-site firefighting pumps, hose reels, roof sprinklers, etc. As mentioned, not mandated by building code, but extremely wise at this threat level. Insurance or fire authorities might suggest these.
Essentially, a BAL-FZ home is built like a commercial fire-resistant structure. Architects sometimes describe it as designing a house that can stand in a bushfire like a firefighter’s shield. Real-world examples include houses with thick concrete or mudbrick walls, small or no windows on the fire-exposed sides, metal shutters that can seal it up, and ember-proof ventilation systems. These houses, if properly built, have survived even direct flame contact – though they might have cosmetic damage, they remain intact.
One downside is cost: Building to BAL-FZ can add a very large premium – some reports from WA indicated additional costs of $50k–120k compared to a standard construction ([PDF] How much does a Bushfire Attack Level house cost to build?), and in extreme designs possibly more. For instance, using special glazing and shutter systems can alone cost tens of thousands.
Because of these challenges, the best approach to Flame Zone is often to avoid it by reduction measures. Many planning authorities won’t allow new subdivisions to create lots where the only choice is BAL-FZ; they require fuel management or layout changes to get to BAL-40 or below. However, if you have an existing property in flame zone (say a house in the forest), these measures are literally lifesavers.
In summary of construction measures by BAL: As the BAL increases from Low to FZ, the house goes from mostly conventional to almost entirely fireproof. BAL-LOW and 12.5 are mainly concerned with ember-proofing; BAL-19 and 29 add greater heat resilience through stronger materials (toughened glass, non-combustible linings); BAL-40 demands very limited use of any combustible elements and heavily reinforced openings; and BAL-FZ requires a near-complete fire barrier around all aspects of the house. Table 1 in the AS 3959 User Guide summarises it well: at Low–12.5, “most materials ok” with ember protection; at 19–29, “limited material choices, glazing requirements increase”; at 40, “very limited materials, strong glazing requirements”; and Flame Zone, “special construction, full shielding to glazing”.
These construction requirements are enshrined in building control. The National Construction Code references AS 3959 as the primary standard for Class 1 buildings in bushfire areas. So a building surveyor will check plans for compliance. Typically, one must provide specifications that all chosen materials meet the BAL rating. Manufacturers often label products as “suitable for BAL-XX” if they have been tested (e.g., a particular window might be advertised as BAL-40 compliant). Using tested systems gives assurance. Alternatively, some use generic solutions like masonry walls which inherently comply.
Next, we will discuss what these BAL-related building requirements mean in practice for builders and homeowners – including considerations of cost, design choices, and compliance. We’ll also move into practical tips for retrofitting existing homes, since not everyone lives in a new BAL-rated house, and many older homes can be improved significantly to resist bushfires.
Impacts of BAL Ratings on Building Design and Cost
Adapting a building to meet a given BAL rating influences many aspects of its design and construction. Higher BAL ratings tend to mean more robust (and often more expensive) materials, additional construction steps to seal and protect the structure, and sometimes aesthetic compromises. Understanding these implications is important for planning and budgeting a build in a bushfire-prone area. Let’s explore a few key impacts:
Design and Material Choices
One immediate effect of a required BAL is on the palette of materials you can use. As detailed earlier, higher BALs progressively rule out common lightweight or flammable materials. For example:
- If you love timber cladding and exposed timber beams, you might use them freely at BAL-12.5 (with minor modifications like screens and seals). But at BAL-29, you’d have to swap many of those out for fire-resistant alternatives (e.g., use fiber-cement weatherboards instead of pine, or use one of the few hardwoods allowed). By BAL-40, timber exteriors are largely off the table.
- If your design envisioned large picture windows or sliding glass doors opening to the view, BAL-19 and above will push you to use thicker toughened glass or even add shutters, which might affect the look or convenience of those windows. You might reduce the number or size of windows on the most exposed elevations to minimize risk and cost.
- Rooflines often get simpler in high BAL designs. A complex roof with lots of valleys, dormers, etc., can be a headache to properly ember-proof () (). Thus architects may choose a simpler roof geometry for BAL-29/40 homes (e.g., a single ridge hip roof) to eliminate vulnerable junctions. Simple shapes also help structurally if parts of the building are under fire – fewer corners means fewer spots where debris can pile up ().
- Architectural features like decks, eaves, carports, or fancy screening elements might be constrained. A wrap-around timber veranda with decorative balustrades might be fine at BAL-12.5 (with some modifications), but by BAL-40, that likely becomes a concrete patio with metal balustrades, or perhaps omitted entirely on the fire-facing side. As one guide notes, “complex house designs where embers can lodge” should be improved or avoided (). This could lead to a more streamlined aesthetic—some see it as a downside, but others use it as inspiration for a clean, modern fire-resistant design.
In essence, higher BAL requirements often steer designs towards a more fire-safe simplicity and robust materiality. This does not mean the house has to look like a bunker (except maybe in Flame Zone where it nearly is one), but it does mean architects must be creative with non-combustible elements (stone, brick, concrete, metal) to achieve the desired look. Fortunately, many beautiful homes have been designed within these constraints, especially in bushfire-prone regions of Australia – using materials like corrugated iron, rammed earth, concrete and fiber-cement in aesthetically pleasing ways.
From a builder’s perspective, meeting high BAL specs can be technically challenging. Builders need to pay great attention to detail and workmanship:
- All those tiny gaps must be sealed (which means more time caulking, using fire-resistant sealants, checking every corner).
- Installing heavier glazing and shutters means coordinating with suppliers and possibly installing steel frames or lintels to support them.
- Working with unfamiliar materials (maybe the owner chose a particular fire-retardant timber or a composite) can require new techniques or tools.
- Inspections by building surveyors will scrutinize that the construction matches what was specified for BAL compliance. If something is overlooked (say a weephole not meshed, or the wrong type of sarking used), it can fail approval. So there’s an administrative diligence needed as well: ensuring all product certificates and details are documented.
All of this can extend construction time a bit and require skilled labor, which brings us to cost.
Cost Implications
There is a clear trend: the higher the BAL, the higher the construction cost, due to material upgrades and additional labor. Several studies and industry surveys have attempted to quantify this cost premium:
- The Insurance Australia Group (IAG) provided indicative figures that rebuilding to BAL-12.5 might add around $16,000 to a standard house, BAL-40 about $56,000 extra, and BAL-FZ potentially over $100,000 extra (BAL Construction Costs – BEMC). These are broad figures and depend on house size/type, but they illustrate the jump.
- A Western Australian survey of landowners found reported additional building costs of $45k–$65k for BAL-40 construction and $50k–$120k for BAL-FZ construction. This suggests BAL-FZ can be roughly double the cost premium of BAL-40.
- A builder in Victoria estimated building a large two-story lightweight house to BAL-29 would cost about 10% more than building the same house if no bushfire standards applied (AS-3959 Construction of buildings in bushfire prone areas how this …).
- Another source indicated an insurance company’s estimate: $16k extra for BAL-12.5, up to $56k extra for BAL-40 on average.
- The bushfire products company Bushfire Control published a table of additional costs by house type: for a “base house” they had ~$19k extra at BAL-40 vs base, and $23k at BAL-FZ; for a large elevated house, a whopping $69k extra at BAL-40 and $85k at BAL-FZ. Elevated homes (on stilts, etc.) are indeed more costly to upgrade because the open underneath needs heavy modification at high BALs.
Where do these costs come from? Some examples:
- Glazing: Standard float glass window vs. toughened glass with mesh screen: the latter can cost 50-100% more per window. Shutters for flame zone can cost a few thousand dollars per window or door.
- Cladding: Non-combustible cladding (e.g. brick or metal) might cost more than timber. If you planned cheap weatherboard (pine) and now must do fiber-cement weatherboard, the material cost is higher and installation maybe slightly more.
- Roof: Sarking under tiles is an added material and labor cost (though now standard in most new builds anyway). Using metal mesh gutter guards adds cost. Upgrading any plastic vents to metal.
- Timber detailing: If you planned exposed timber rafters or a timber pergola, now you might need steel – which is pricier.
- Trades and time: Achieving the tight sealing and complex detailing might mean more hours on site. It could also mean needing specialized trades (like shutter installers, or stone masons if one switches to brick).
- Compliance: There’s some administrative overhead. Consultants may charge to provide evidence that a custom solution meets BAL requirements if you deviate at all. Or you might need to pay for extra inspections.
That said, some costs can be offset or considered as part of multi-purpose upgrades. For instance, going to double-glazed toughened windows for BAL also improves energy efficiency and sound proofing – you get a benefit beyond fire. Using metal roofing and eliminating eaves can simplify maintenance and give a modern look as well. So owners can sometimes justify the extra initial cost by the long-term gains (energy savings, durability, possibly insurance benefits).
Yes, insurance: Insurance premiums may be affected by how a house is built. If you build to the required BAL (as you must legally), you may not get a direct discount (insurers assume you built to code). But if you retrofit an older house, some insurers might give credit for adding shutters or sprinkler systems. Conversely, if you under-build (say you lied and built cheaper than required, or a historic house is not upgraded), an insurer might not fully cover a fire loss if the house didn’t meet regulations or was more vulnerable. Also, as climate risk grows, insurance in fire-prone areas is rising). A robust, BAL-compliant house may become easier to insure than a flimsy one. There’s even talk that banks might begin rejecting mortgages in extremely high-risk (and non-mitigated) properties, so building right protects your investment in that sense too.
From a public policy perspective, yes, building to higher BAL adds upfront cost, but it can save hugely in disaster losses. The 2020 Royal Commission into Disasters highlighted that improving building standards can reduce damage exposure. The cost to rebuild a destroyed home far exceeds that premium of building it stronger in the first place. So governments often require these measures for the greater good, even if individual owners feel the pinch initially. Some have suggested subsidies or grants for the additional costs, especially after disasters when people are rebuilding with limited funds. After the 2009 fires, the Victorian government offered some concessions (like waiving permit fees, etc.) but generally not direct cash for BAL upgrades. The Green Rebuild Toolkit and other advocacy groups push for making resilient building more affordable, noting “high BAL invariably adds complexity and cost” which can be a barrier.
Compliance and Living with a BAL-rated Home
Beyond construction, living in a house built for a certain BAL may involve ongoing considerations:
- Maintenance: The measures in place must be maintained. For example, those mesh screens need occasional cleaning and checks (make sure they haven’t torn or rusted). Seals around doors/windows might degrade and need replacement to keep embers out. Gutter guards help but you still should remove debris on top of them. A house built to BAL-40 that is not maintained (paint peeling, seals cracking, etc.) could lose some of its protective ability over time.
- Landscaping: You might have a beautiful BAL-40 house but if you let trees grow too close or store firewood on the deck, you introduce vulnerabilities. Many guidelines emphasize the importance of maintaining the defendable space and not undermining the construction by careless landscaping. This is often a condition in planning permits as well – you must keep a vegetation management zone. We’ll cover this more in retrofitting/practical section.
- Comfort and aesthetics: Some BAL features can affect daily life. Example: non-openable windows with fixed shutters obviously impact ventilation and light. Most designs avoid going that far except maybe on one or two exposures. Having metal screens on windows slightly cuts daylight and view clarity – a minor but noticeable difference. Some owners remove screens in non-fire season for clearer views, but must remember to put them back. These are small trade-offs. Another is if you have to keep windows closed and rely on AC more because of the way the house is sealed (though you can have openable windows with screens in all but the direst scenarios).
- Fire planning: If you built to a high BAL and plan to defend your home (stay and actively defend), you’ll have more confidence in the structure. But you should still have a fire plan. The house gives shelter but extreme conditions can still be deadly, so owners should not get a false sense of invincibility. Fire services stress: a well-built house can save lives as a last resort refuge if you get trapped, but “leaving early is always the safest option”. Thus even with a BAL-FZ house, having a plan to evacuate on severe fire danger days is advised.
One positive outcome of BAL-rated construction is that community resilience improves. If more homes survive, fewer people are displaced, and firefighters can focus on stopping fire spread rather than structure protection. In recent fires, newer homes built to the post-2009 standards indeed survived in greater numbers. The rebuilding of places like Marysville, Kinglake, Cobargo, etc., includes many BAL-compliant homes; while they haven’t all been tested yet by fires as bad as the ones that destroyed their predecessors, those that have seen fire have mostly performed well (with exceptions where conditions truly overwhelmed even the new codes). This suggests the cost and effort of compliance are yielding real-world benefits.
In the next section, we’ll provide practical guidance for both building new and retrofitting existing homes for bushfire resilience. This goes hand-in-hand with BAL construction details. After all, if you have an older home (pre-1991, before AS 3959 was around), it likely doesn’t meet any BAL standard, but you can apply many of the same principles to greatly increase its safety. And if you are building new, beyond just following the code, there are additional best practices to make your home even safer (and maybe even more livable and sustainable at the same time).
Practical Tips for Building or Retrofitting for Bushfire Resilience
Whether you are constructing a new home in a bushfire zone or improving an older property, there are numerous practical measures you can take to enhance bushfire resilience. This section will serve as a guide for homeowners and builders on what actions make a real difference on the ground. Some measures are mandatory under BAL-based construction, as we’ve discussed, but here we’ll emphasize them in plain terms and add other recommended practices (even if not strictly required by code). We’ll split this into New Construction and Retrofitting Existing Homes, though there is overlap.
Building a New Home: Best Practices Beyond Compliance
When building a new house in a bushfire-prone area, meeting the required BAL construction standards is the minimum – but you can often do better than the minimum, and often at little extra cost, to improve safety and peace of mind. Here are some key tips:
- Plan the site and orientation wisely: If your land is large enough, position the house as far from hazardous vegetation as possible (this can reduce your BAL and risk). Use your property’s topography – building on the lee side of a hill or behind a cleared knoll can offer natural protection. Avoid situating the house in a saddle or narrow gully which can act as a wind/fire funnel. Also consider access: ensure fire trucks can get to your house and you have a clear evacuation route (more on that below) – site your driveway accordingly.
- Incorporate defendable space into your design: Plan your garden/yard layout to create an Asset Protection Zone around the house. Aim for at least 20–30 meters of low-fuel area immediately around the home if possible (this might include lawn, gravel, paving, well-spaced fire resistant plants). Hardscaping features like stone paths or concrete patios adjacent to the house act as good fire breaks. If your BAL assessment counted on certain vegetation being removed or kept sparse, make sure your landscaping plans align with that. For instance, do not plant a row of pine trees 5 m from the living room even if they’d look nice – they could turn your house into BAL-FZ in a future re-assessment or, worse, in reality.
- Roof design: Keep roofs simple and preferably pitch them moderately (no flat roofs) so debris doesn’t accumulate heavily () (). Avoid internal valleys where leaf litter collects; if you have them, be sure to install valley leaf guards and design for easy cleaning. Choose a non-combustible roof (metal or tile) and ensure it’s well sarked and sealed. Think about ember-proofing at design stage – e.g., use a hip roof with boxed eaves and few penetrations, which is easier to seal than a complex gable with decorative vents.
- External materials: Opt for non-combustible materials wherever aesthetically and economically feasible, even if your BAL allows some combustibles. For example, instead of timber cladding that just barely meets BAL-19, you might choose a fiber-cement product that looks similar but doesn’t burn. This gives you extra safety margin. Many modern sustainable homes use rammed earth, mud brick, brick veneer, or concrete – all excellent for bushfire and also great for energy efficiency (thermal mass). If you love timber finishes, consider using them in interiors or in features that can be sacrificial without compromising the house (e.g., a decorative screen a few meters away from the house, rather than wood on the facade itself).
- Windows and Shutters: Install metal mesh screens on all windows and external glass doors – even if you’re in BAL-12.5 where it might be optional for some windows, it’s a cheap and effective layer of protection. If you’re in a higher risk area, invest in bushfire shutters for large or vulnerable openings. Modern shutters can be unobtrusive (rolling up into a pelmet) and can double as security shutters or for darkening rooms, so they have multiple uses. Design your windows such that shutters can be easily added – e.g., have enough space above them for a roller shutter housing if not installing initially.
- Ember-resistant design details: Lots of small design decisions can eliminate ember traps:
- Prefer hip roofs over gable roofs, or if using gables, ensure the eave overhangs are minimal and the apex vent is sealed or meshed.
- Avoid roof-mounted solar panels being too close to the roof surface without cleaning access – embers can get under. Ideally mount panels a bit raised so debris can blow through, or flush but with edges sealed. Also use metal brackets and conduits.
- If building on a slope, consider cutting into the slope and using retaining walls so that the house is partly shielded by earth on the fire-uphill side.
- Design any underfloor areas to be accessible for cleaning (if not enclosed) or fully enclose them – don’t leave awkward crawl spaces that become leaf traps.
- Use simple joinery – e.g., avoid ornate trim that creates gaps, use square-set designs that are easier to seal.
- Choose bushfire-resisting timber if using wood: If you plan exposed timber elements (decking, pergola, cladding), pick from the list of dense hardwoods known for fire resistance (like Blackbutt, Spotted Gum, Turpentine, Red Ironbark, Merbau, etc.). These woods not only withstand fire better, they also often have natural termite resistance and high durability. They may cost more than pine, but they last much longer and won’t ignite as quickly from embers. Also use larger dimension timbers; a chunky post takes longer to burn through than a thin one (the standard acknowledges size in some cases).
- Integrate water and power for defense: At build time, it’s wise to include at least basic infrastructure for firefighting:
- A dedicated water tank (steel or concrete) with a firefighting pump and hose outlet. In some areas, this is mandated (like 10,000L fire water supply with a CFA-compatible outlet in Vic’s BMO permits). Even if not, having your own water supply is invaluable if mains water fails. Design the tank placement so it’s protected (perhaps buried or on the least fire-exposed side).
- Consider installing roof sprinklers or drenchers. These can be as simple as a sprinkler pipe along the ridge that can be turned on manually or by a fire detection system. At build time, adding this plumbing is easier than retrofitting later. It can dramatically reduce ember ignition if used properly (though it will consume water, so plan capacity).
- Ensure you have a generator hookup or backup power in case fires knock out electricity – you’ll need it to run pumps, and possibly for shutters if they are electric. Designing an off-grid-capable solar/battery system or at least a generator inlet can be part of a resilient home concept.
- Access and Egress: Make sure the driveway is designed to allow fire truck access (e.g., >3.5 m wide, >4 m clearance height). Provide a turnaround area if possible so trucks can get out easily. If your property is large, maybe include a second exit if feasible or a circular drive. Also, plan refuge areas – e.g., a cleared pad or a dam – something on site as a fallback if escape is cut off. While the hope is you evacuate early, planning for worst case is prudent.
Finally, build above code if you can afford to. For instance, if your site is BAL-19, you might still choose to use some BAL-40 rated materials in critical spots (like windows). This “belt and braces” approach gives extra resilience for not much more cost. One homeowner in a bushfire area put it this way: spend perhaps 5% more now, to hugely improve your chances in a fire – a worthwhile investment considering the house and lives it protects.
Retrofitting Existing Homes for Bushfire Safety
Millions of Australian homes were built before modern bushfire standards and are inherently more vulnerable. If you live in such a home in a bushfire-prone area, retrofitting can significantly reduce the risk. Research has shown that relatively straightforward retrofits can “drastically reduce the risk of ignition” of older houses. Here are five top retrofit measures (as identified by bushfire building experts) to prioritize:
- Ember-proof your vents and gaps. Ember attack is the number one enemy of homes. By upgrading external vents, we mean install ember-proof mesh (≤2 mm aperture metal mesh) over all openings where embers could enter: eave vents, gable vents, roof vents, crawl-space vents, even weep holes in brick walls. This is typically low-cost (mesh screens or specialized ember-safe vent products are available). Also seal up gaps in construction: use fire-resistant sealant or filler for gaps around roofing, between roofing and wall, around pipes, etc. Many older homes have gaps under eaves or at ridges that weren’t sealed – stuffing those with mineral wool or installing manufactured ember guards can stop embers. One often-missed spot: the garage door edges – consider weather strips there as well.
- Install gutter guards (and keep gutters clean). Ember-resistant gutter guards, ideally made of fine steel mesh, can prevent leaves from accumulating and stop embers from igniting those leaves in your gutters (which can then ignite the eaves). Even without guards, cleaning gutters before each fire season is a must. But guards make that job easier and safer by reducing debris build-up. Ensure the gutter guard is metal (plastic will melt) and securely fixed so high winds won’t dislodge it. Also check your roof valleys and any flat sections for debris traps – clean them and consider adding metal “valley guards” (mesh that covers the valley).
- Upgrade windows and walls in key areas. Look at the parts of your house facing the bush or where heat is likely to be greatest. Windows are often the weakest link – old single-pane windows can shatter from heat, allowing embers in. Retrofitting options:
- Replace regular glass with toughened (tempered) glass in existing frames where feasible. Tempered glass can often be ordered in the same dimensions.
- Install bushfire shutters or metal screens over windows. If replacing the window isn’t an option, a steel or aluminum mesh fire screen can give some protection (though shutters give more). There are retrofit shutter solutions, including ones that can be manually placed over windows on high-risk days if permanent shutters are too costly.
- If you have timber window frames, consider wrapping the external part with thin sheet metal (there are products or custom solutions to clad the frame in metal) to prevent direct flame contact from igniting it.
- For walls, if you have timber siding and can’t replace it entirely, you could treat it with fire-retardant paint or spray (there are intumescent paints that char and insulate wood during fire). This won’t make it non-combustible, but it can improve performance. Another idea is to retrofit using fire-rated boards over existing walls – e.g., attach fiber cement sheeting on top of wood siding in vulnerable sections; it changes the look, but you can render or paint it.
- At the very least, ensure there are no cracks or holes in external walls – patch any damage, replace missing boards, fix loose flashing.
- Address decks and verandahs. Wooden decks connected to the house are a major hazard – they often ignite from embers and then spread fire to the house. If you have a timber deck:
- Regularly clear underneath of any leaves or debris (embers will exploit that fuel).
- Consider retrofitting the deck surface with a less combustible layer. For instance, you could overlay deck boards with fiber-cement sheeting or tiles in the area closest to the house. Or use fire-retardant mats that can be rolled out on severe fire danger days to cover the deck.
- If the deck needs rebuilding or you’re up for a project, rebuild it with fire-resistant materials. Options: metal framing, composite (non-combustible) decking boards, or at least replace the top boards with one of the dense hardwoods. At BAL-29+ or if you’re in a very high risk spot, best is to replace wood decks with masonry patios or a raised concrete deck.
- If you have a raised verandah with a timber balustrade (railing), consider replacing the balustrade with metal or toughened glass panels – wooden railings can catch fire and “ladder” flames to eaves or the roof.
- Create space and manage fuels around the home. As the saying goes: “the garden can determine the survival of the house.” Ensure there is a cleared or low-fuel zone immediately around your home (within at least 10-20 meters). This means:
- Remove any combustible items touching or very near the house: firewood piles, mulch against the walls, wooden trellises or fences that are attached (consider a metal or concrete barrier between a fence and the house).
- Trim back any overhanging trees or branches that come near the roof. Ideally no trees overhanging at all.
- Remove shrubs or flammable plants adjacent to the house, especially under windows or near vents. Replace them with gravels or succulents (which are fleshy and retain water) or other low flammability species. The SA Country Fire Service suggests keeping the 5 meters closest to the house totally clear of shrubs, and within 10-20m, only having well-spaced, low flammability plants.
- Keep grass short (10 cm or less) during fire season. Rake up bark and leaves regularly – embers find the smallest fuel to start a fire.
- Consider landscaping features: e.g., a rock garden border, paving around the perimeter, a pebble or crushed stone bed next to walls – these can all act as mini fire breaks or at least fuel-free zones right next to the house.
- If you have external structures like sheds, pergolas, play equipment – if they are close to the house, treat them as part of the house for risk. Maybe retrofit the shed with mesh on vents, keep it tidy of combustibles, etc., because if it catches fire, it can impinge on the house.
Beyond these five, a few more worthwhile retrofits and tips:
- Ember-proof the roof space: Many older houses have ventilated eaves or gable vents. As stated, screen those. Also, check the ridge cap – sometimes older roofs have gaps. Use a fire retardant expanding foam or silicone to plug them. If you have an old chimney that’s not in use, cap or screen it.
- Replace plastic features: Plastic skylights, eave linings, or pipes can fail in fire. A common retrofit is to replace a plastic dome skylight with a modern glass one. If you have PVC downpipes, consider swapping the sections near the house to metal (so if they melt, they don’t leave a hole for embers to enter eaves).
- Add fire stops in the attic: One trick retrofitters use is installing fire-resistant bats or mineral wool at the edges of roof spaces (above the top plate of walls) to block embers from traveling once inside an attic. If an ember does blow in, these stops can compartmentalize and make it less likely to spread or fall down wall cavities.
- Sprinkler systems and gels: You can install a roof sprinkler system relatively cheaply on an existing house – even just garden sprinklers strategically placed on the roof with a fire pump can wet things down. As a last-minute measure, products like fire-retardant gels can be sprayed on walls/windows when a fire is imminent (these gels stick and provide short-term insulation). These require some prep and equipment to apply, but some homeowners in fire zones keep them as part of their bushfire plan.
- Build a refuge or safe zone: If you have an older house that you can’t retrofit fully (heritage, or budget limits), at least create a “hardened room” or area that could be a last resort shelter. This could be a part of the house with few windows, maybe you reinforce it with fire-rated plasterboard and a solid core door. Or perhaps a separate bunker in ground. While evacuating early is paramount, having a survivable space could save lives in an extreme event where someone is trapped.
Crucially, maintain your retrofits. Check those mesh screens annually, replace any that rust (stainless steel is best to avoid rust). Renew seals around doors. Keep up with the yard work. Bushfire preparedness is an ongoing process, not a one-time set-and-forget.
Retrofitting can be done in stages. A sensible approach is to tackle the cheapest, highest-benefit actions first (like ember-proofing vents and clearing around the house – which fall in the low-cost column) before moving to moderate cost (like upgrading some windows, adding screens, maybe replacing sections of wall cladding – moderate cost column) and then higher-cost items if needed (like installing sprinkler systems, enclosing subfloors, major material replacements – high cost column). This way, each fire season you are incrementally safer.
To reinforce the importance of retrofitting: analysis after bushfires consistently finds that houses with simple upgrades (like metal screens and cleared vegetation) are far more likely to survive than unmodified. Even if you cannot achieve full compliance of current code on an old house, doing these pragmatic steps can mean the difference between your home being standing or in ashes after a fire.
Finally, always tie your efforts into a broader bushfire plan: have an emergency kit, keep insurance up to date, know your triggers for evacuating, etc. A fire-safe house is a great asset, but human safety comes first. If you retrofit your home well, you have the comfort that if worst comes to worst, the house might save itself (and maybe you, if caught). But as authorities say, “the safest option is to leave early” in a bushfire event. Your resilient home then provides a better chance that you’ll have something to return to when the smoke clears.
Having covered individual structures, let’s zoom out to case studies and how communities manage bushfire risk with planning and policy, especially focusing on Victoria and NSW. These stories will underscore how the principles we discussed play out in real events and what lessons have been learned.
Case Studies and Real-World Examples
Learning from real bushfire events and how buildings have fared is invaluable. Here we present several case studies and examples that illustrate the effectiveness of BAL-rated construction, or conversely, the consequences of inadequate mitigation. We’ll look at both individual house outcomes and community-scale analyses, with emphasis on experiences in Victoria and NSW.
Example 1: BAL-Built Home Survives a Fire Front Unattended (South Coast NSW, 2020)
In the catastrophic 2019–2020 Black Summer fires, thousands of homes were lost, but there were also notable survival stories. One such story comes from the South Coast of NSW, where a home built in 2011 to rigorous bushfire standards survived an intense forest fire with no intervention. The owners had evacuated, and the house had to “survive on its own merits”.
What made this house different? It was constructed essentially to a BAL-FZ (or beyond) level, even though it might not have been formally rated as such (since it predated current standards in part). Key features as reported by the owner, Paul Whitington, included:
- Fire-resistant external materials: The walls were made of 250mm thick aerated concrete blocks (Hebel) which can resist fire for hours. The external walls were then rendered for finish (no paint to ignite). The roof was Zincalume steel with very tightly spaced timber trusses and a layer of fireproof sarking beneath. Eaves and fascias were fiber-cement and steel. Essentially nothing on the exterior could readily burn.
- “No-gaps” construction: They meticulously sealed every possible gap where embers could enter. Ridge capping was scribed and filled to eliminate gaps. Eaves were enclosed and gaps filled with fire-retardant expanding foam. They even had metal mesh gutter guards and fine mesh on all vents. This approach paid dividends – after the fire, the inside of the house had no smoke or ash, as if “hermetically sealed”.
- Window protection: All windows had either toughened glass or external fire shutters/screens (the article mentions shutter tracks in photos, suggesting they had bushfire shutters ready). And window frames were metal. Indeed, they reported absolutely no heat damage inside, meaning windows held up.
- Surroundings: The house was in heavy forest, but presumably they managed the immediate area; post-fire photos show tree trunks charred near the house, but likely surface fuels were minimal near the walls (since the house didn’t catch). They also had a metal roof sprinkler system which they ran before evacuating to wet everything (implied in some recounts, though not explicitly in the snippet).
Outcome: When they returned, the house was intact, cool and smoke-free inside. Everything around was burned, but the home became a lone survivor. This case validates that a house built with non-combustible materials and sealed against embers can withstand even a firestorm. It also illustrates the points: no vegetation touching the house, no flammable material on the house, and no gaps for embers gave it the qualities of a shelter.
Paul Whitington was not surprised his house made it – he deliberately designed for catastrophe. He wanted to demonstrate to others what choices matter in construction. This case has been cited widely to encourage ember-proof construction practices. In fact, an HIA article that featured this house noted these lessons and confirmed that non-combustible external materials, protected glazing, and minimal gaps were key to its survival.
Example 2: Older vs Newer Homes in the 2009 Black Saturday Fires (Victoria)
The Black Saturday fires of 2009 in Victoria tragically destroyed over 2,000 homes. In the aftermath, studies compared how houses built to earlier standards fared versus any that had more modern features. Findings included:
- Homes built prior to 1991 (before AS 3959 was first introduced) were vastly more vulnerable. Many of these older homes were of weatherboard or fibro construction, often on stumps, with little ember protection. They suffered total losses in the path of the fires.
- A few homes constructed in the 2000s to the then-current bushfire guidelines did survive Black Saturday in affected towns. For instance, a strawbale home with render (thus very fireproof walls) and a metal roof survived in Flowerdale, whereas neighboring conventional homes burned – largely credited to its non-combustible envelope and good defendable space.
- The Royal Commission into Black Saturday noted that “many of the houses that survived were saved because of preparatory work by owners or design features that reduced vulnerability” (paraphrased). This informed recommendations to strengthen building standards, leading to the adoption of the new BAL-based AS 3959:2009 and mandatory 12.5 minimum.
- In Marysville, virtually the entire town was razed – mostly older timber cottages. A handful of structures survived: one was the local bakery which had brick walls and a tile roof (non-combustible shell); another was a stone church. This pointed out the role of materials: masonry and metal buildings had a better chance even if not designed with BAL in mind.
- Embers were the chief culprit in house losses – CSIRO post-fire analysis showed most houses ignited either from embers creating spot fires on or in the structure, or from radiant heat shattering windows then embers entering. This reinforced the need for ember-resistant construction, which became a focus of the new regulations (like requiring screens, sarking, etc.).
The government responded by not only changing building regulations but also introducing the Bushfire Management Overlay (BMO) in planning for high-risk areas, requiring new builds to meet defendable space and BAL standards (we’ll talk more on that next section). The rebuilds in these areas thus had to adhere to BAL. Fast forward to 2019-2020 fires: many of those rebuilt homes faced fire again.
For instance, in the 2019 Maroondah-Yarra complex fires, a few homes in the Buxton/Marysville region built post-2009 survived significant ember attacks. Locals noted metal shutters, cleared yards, and sprinkler systems on those new houses made a difference. While not a widely documented study, community reports often share that “the new house we built after Black Saturday survived [this time] with only minor damage.” This indicates the changes had a positive effect.
Example 3: 2019–20 Black Summer – Mixed Outcomes, Proof of Standards (NSW)
During the 2019–20 Black Summer fires in NSW (and parts of Vic), there were areas where the fire was so extreme that even some houses built to code were tested to their limits. Yet, overall trends emerged:
- The NSW Rural Fire Service noted that houses constructed to the latest Planning for Bush Fire Protection 2006/2019 (which aligns with AS 3959) generally performed better. In one analysis they found a higher proportion of survival among houses built after 2005 compared to older ones in the same fire path.
- Cobargo, NSW (South Coast) – A town hit very hard by fire. Anecdotal evidence from builders like Jimmy Drakos (rebuilding there) said “homes built to current bushfire standards performed far better than those built prior,” and he references articles of newly built houses in highest risk areas withstanding bushfires with only minimal damage. Indeed, at Cobargo, a few newly built homes on the outskirts survived almost unscathed, whereas many older weatherboard homes in town were lost. One surviving home had been built just a year before with ember-proof design and steel cladding.
- Lake Conjola, NSW – A coastal community with both modern and older houses, saw a severe ember storm. A RFS analysis showed many older fibro shacks burned, while some newer brick-and-tile homes remained. Interestingly, at least one new two-story house built to code had only superficial damage (scorched paint, etc.), whereas next door an older house was gone. The difference was things like ember guards and toughened glass windows staying intact vs. the older home’s windows blowing out and interior catching.
- Canberra 2003 fires (a bit earlier, but a stark case): In the 2003 ACT fires, 470 homes were lost. A later study found brick veneer houses with tile roofs fared better than weatherboard with iron roofs, and homes with leafless gutters and cleared yards had higher survival. That event heavily influenced AS 3959:2009’s development. Canberra subsequently updated its codes and in the 2020 Orroral Valley fire, the suburbs (with newer houses) that were threatened did not suffer the same level of loss, partly due to both conditions and improved preparedness.
One academic study in 2020 summarized: Location, vegetation, and luck play a role, but newer homes with heat- and ember-resistant features survive better. It cited evidence from California and Australian fires that supports our local observations. The authors also lamented that 55% of Australian homes are 30+ years old and thus pre-date national fire standards, highlighting the importance of retrofits for community resilience.
Example 4: Community Planning – The Role of Overlays and Regulations
Victoria’s Bushfire Management Overlay (BMO) is a planning control applied to areas of extreme bushfire hazard. It was introduced after Black Saturday. Under the BMO, new developments must not only build to a BAL but also meet planning requirements for siting and defendable space. For instance, if someone wants to build a new house in a BMO area, they must provide a Bushfire Management Statement showing how they achieve a certain BAL (usually BAL-29 or lower) through clearing and setbacks (Bushfire areas and overlays | Victorian Building Authority). If they cannot, the permit can be refused. This has real effect: in some cases, people had to move the location of a proposed house or reduce the footprint to allow more surrounding clearing to satisfy the CFA and council that BAL-29 could be met. The idea is to avoid placing residents in Flame Zone conditions if at all possible. Over the last decade, the BMO has altered how subdivisions are designed – e.g., making sure each lot has a building envelope in a less vegetated spot, roads are positioned as firebreaks, etc.
New South Wales’ approach, via the Planning for Bush Fire Protection guidelines, similarly requires subdivision planning to ensure future buildings can achieve appropriate BAL. For example, in a subdivision, areas close to heavy bush might be designated as park or open space (serving as buffer) and houses set further back. The RFS often mandates an Asset Protection Zone be established as part of development. There have been subdivisions where a developer had to cede a 30 m fuel-free strip along the forest boundary as a condition of approval, ensuring the houses are effectively not built in flame zone. NSW also has Section 10.7 certificates (planning certificates) that inform buyers if land is bushfire prone and what constraints apply.
Outcome in communities: While these planning measures might reduce the number of lots or require more clearing (sometimes controversial for environmental reasons), they have improved overall resilience. In areas that were rebuilt or newly developed with these controls:
- When fires next occurred, there were often fewer homes in the most dangerous spots, so losses were not as clustered.
- Houses that did burn were more isolated instances rather than entire streets, because each was more self-protected and separated.
- Some communities have done community fireguard programs, where neighbors collectively maintain their APZ and ensure consistent preparedness. This kind of collective action amplifies individual house preparedness.
Example 5: Cultural Burning and Community Resilience – Yuin Nation on South Coast
In parts of NSW, Indigenous communities have been re-introducing cultural burning practices – low-intensity burns in cooler seasons to reduce undergrowth, informed by traditional knowledge. One example: On Yuin country (South Coast NSW), cultural burns were conducted near certain communities before the 2019–20 season. When the mega-fires came through, those areas had lower intensity fire and some homes at the fringe survived when similar homes elsewhere did not.
A local case: Narooma, NSW, where the Yuin people had been doing small burns around a particular settlement. When the Badja Forest Road fire hit that area, locals observed the fire dropped from the canopy to the ground and slowed where the cultural burns had been, giving firefighters a chance to protect houses. This suggests that not just building features, but landscape fuel management – especially methods harmonized with the environment – can be a game-changer. It doesn’t replace BAL construction, but it complements it by hopefully ensuring fires are less intense when they reach communities.
Scientific backing: A 2023 study found that Indigenous burning historically reduced fire extremes in Illawarra forests. Modern evidence and cultural insight both point to it as part of future resilience strategy. For homeowners, this underscores that working with local fire authorities and Indigenous land managers to manage fuel on a broader scale can be as important as what you do on your own lot.
Summing Up Lessons:
Across these case studies, some common themes emerge:
- Houses built or retrofitted to modern bushfire standards survive at much higher rates than those that aren’t. It’s not absolute – extremely ferocious fires can overwhelm, but the odds improve dramatically.
- Ember protection is paramount. Many survival stories came down to “we had no embers get in” and many losses were “embers got in and started a fire inside”. The simplest things (mesh on a vent, sealing a eave gap) have saved homes.
- Non-combustible materials and design can make a home stand like a fortress even if everything around burns. The 2020 south coast example is vivid proof.
- Human factors: If owners stay and actively defend with appropriate preparations (water, pumps, etc.), they can often save houses if those houses have some level of resilience to begin with. Conversely, if a house is indefensible (like an old timber cottage with no prep), even defense might fail. In 2009, some houses were saved by owners, but at high personal risk; thus the push is to have houses that can save themselves as much as possible, so people aren’t forced to stay.
- Planning and community measures (like enforceable clearing distances, access roads, refuges) greatly enhance collective safety. E.g., after 2009, many communities established designated Neighbourhood Safer Places (bushfire refuges) so people have somewhere to go if they can’t evacuate far – a recognition that even with better houses, you need a fallback safe area if evacuation is cut off.
We’ve seen how individual building and community planning interplay. Now, let’s discuss how these are formalized in regulations and planning schemes in Victoria and NSW, touching on the roles of CFA, RFS/FRNSW, and policies that govern building in bushfire-prone areas.
Community Planning and Bushfire Regulations in Victoria and NSW
Building bushfire-resilient communities isn’t just about individual houses; it also involves broader planning decisions, land-use controls, and emergency management considerations. In Victoria and New South Wales – two states frequently affected by bushfires – there are well-established frameworks to integrate bushfire risk into planning and construction. This section will outline those frameworks, highlighting the roles of agencies like the Country Fire Authority (CFA) in Victoria and NSW Rural Fire Service (RFS) and Fire and Rescue NSW (FRNSW), as well as the key regulations and policies.
Victoria: Bushfire Prone Areas, BMO, and CFA Involvement
In Victoria, bushfire planning and building is guided by a combination of mapping and overlays:
- Bushfire Prone Areas (BPA): These are geographic areas designated by the state as subject to bushfire risk. BPA maps cover large swathes of Victoria (most rural areas and even outer suburban fringes). If your property is in a BPA, any new home must be built to at least BAL-12.5, as we noted. The Building Regulations enforce that – building surveyors check permit applications against BPA maps. The Victorian Building Authority notes “All new homes constructed in a BPA must be built to a minimum BAL 12.5 to help withstand ember attack”. So the BPA triggers the application of AS 3959 via the Building Code.
- Bushfire Management Overlay (BMO): This is a stricter control within planning schemes, applied to areas of extreme bushfire hazard (often where heavy forest meets settlements, etc.). If your land has a BMO, you cannot develop or even significantly renovate without a planning permit that addresses bushfire safety. The BMO requires a Bushfire Management Plan demonstrating things like:
- Defendable space (vegetation management zones) around the proposed building to achieve a certain BAL (the required BAL for planning may be lower than what raw assessment would be, meaning you must create space).
- Construction standards to the appropriate BAL.
- Water supply for firefighting (e.g., a static water tank with CFA fittings).
- Access requirements (driveway width, turning circle, etc.) for fire trucks.
- Sometimes neighborhood-scale considerations, like not increasing risk to others.
The local council will refer BMO applications to the CFA (Country Fire Authority) for expert assessment. The CFA as a referral authority will either approve the fire aspect, require changes, or object if it’s not safe. For example, CFA might say “you need an extra 10 m of clearing on the north side to achieve BAL-19, otherwise we don’t support this permit.” The BMO permit can impose conditions like maintaining that defendable space in perpetuity.
If a lot is essentially unable to meet requirements (say it’s a small block surrounded by forest so it’s stuck in Flame Zone no matter what), a planning permit might be refused outright – effectively rendering the lot unbuildable due to bushfire risk. This is a protective measure to avoid catastrophic outcomes. However, councils try to work with applicants to find solutions.
- CFA’s role: The CFA in Victoria plays a key role in both planning and community education. They provide guidelines such as CFA Fire Service Guidelines for Water Supply and Access to ensure those aspects are met. They also often sit on municipal fire management planning committees that identify local risks and mitigation strategies (like planned fuel reduction burns around towns). When a BMO permit is issued, CFA may inspect the property during construction or afterward to ensure conditions (like clearing or tank installation) are done. Additionally, CFA has programs for residents like Community FireGuard groups, advice sessions on retrofitting, etc., to encourage people to go beyond bare minimum.
After a fire, CFA and the building regulator might do a post-incident analysis. For example, after Black Saturday, CFA contributed to mapping where houses were lost and why, feeding that info into policy changes (like refining the vegetation rules for BMO).
- Local Planning Schemes: Clause 53.02 of all Victorian planning schemes is a standard clause that outlines bushfire planning requirements for new development (particularly in BMO). It includes objective like ensuring new development doesn’t increase risk, that defending from fire is feasible, etc. It’s basically the rules that applicants in BMO must follow, referencing BAL and defendable space tables (similar to AS 3959 but with some differences like a mandatory BAL-12.5 even if vegetation is far, as we saw).
- Private Bushfire Shelters: Victoria also introduced regulations for private bushfire shelters (bunkers) post-2009. They must be engineered to a performance standard and require a permit. This is an option if, for example, you have an existing house you can’t easily upgrade to safety but want a fallback – you install a bunker (some went this route after 2009). It doesn’t reduce BAL or planning needs, but it’s relevant to mention as part of regulation: they legalized and standardized bunkers rather than leaving people to DIY dangerous cellars. The BMO encourages that if someone plans to stay as last resort, they use a certified shelter.
In summary, in Victoria: BPA mapping ensures building code BAL compliance; BMO overlay ensures planning oversight for worst areas – together covering both aspects. The CFA provides expert input and has effectively a veto on unsafe proposals within BMO. These layers make bushfire a front-and-center consideration in any development process.
New South Wales: Bushfire-Prone Land, Planning for Bush Fire Protection (PBP), and RFS/FRNSW Roles
New South Wales uses a slightly different but analogous system:
- Bushfire Prone Land (BFPL) maps: Each local government area has maps (prepared by councils and certified by RFS) outlining different bushfire vegetation categories and a buffer zone. If your property is on this map (and huge areas are, similar to Vic’s BPA), certain development controls kick in. Notably, any new development application on bushfire prone land must incorporate bushfire protection measures as per the legislation (NSW EP&A Act and Building Code referencing AS 3959 and the guideline PBP 2019).
- Planning for Bush Fire Protection (PBP): This is a comprehensive guideline document by NSW RFS (latest edition 2019) that serves as the blueprint for how to design subdivisions, buildings, and landscaping in bushfire areas ([PDF] 1 Fire and Bush Fire Issues and Impacts – Lightsource bp) ([PDF] A Computerised Model for Bushfire Attack Assessment and Its …). PBP includes:
- Rules for Asset Protection Zones (APZ) – how much cleared/managed land is required between bushfire hazards and buildings, based on vegetation type and desired BAL. It essentially mirrors the BAL tables but frames them as required setbacks.
- Access road standards, water supply (e.g., a hydrant or tank within certain distance), emergency planning considerations.
- Construction standards referencing AS 3959 BAL requirements (with some minor additional NSW-specific requirements, like in BAL-FZ they mandate certain methods if staying at FZ).
- Different classes of buildings (residential, special fire protection like schools, etc.) have specific requirements – e.g., a school might need greater APZ than a house for same BAL because of higher consequence of failure.
- An important aspect: PBP is enforceable through the Environmental Planning and Assessment Act. Section 4.14 of the Act basically says development on bushfire prone land must comply with PBP or have RFS’s approval of alternate measures. The local council cannot approve a non-complying DA unless the RFS (or a qualified consultant via a performance solution) endorses it.
- NSW RFS: The Rural Fire Service is the statutory authority that assesses development in bushfire prone areas (for most areas outside metro). If you lodge a DA for a new house on bushfire prone land, one of two things happens:
- If it’s a straightforward single dwelling that can comply with PBP prescriptively (meaning you meet all setback and construction requirements), the council can approve it with conditions, usually after getting a report (called a Bushfire Assessment Report) from either RFS or an accredited consultant. RFS in many cases has delegated the basic assessments to councils if they follow the rules.
- If it’s a special case (like a school, tourist facility, or a proposal in Flame Zone, etc.), it becomes “Integrated Development” and RFS must issue a Bush Fire Safety Authority. They thoroughly assess the proposal, can require modifications, and then issue this approval which attaches conditions (like “must clear vegetation per plan, build to BAL-40,” etc.). Without RFS’s BFSA, the DA cannot be approved by council. Essentially, RFS has a veto similar to CFA’s role.
RFS also provides free advice to homeowners via their local officers. They have pre-DA consultation for tricky sites, and after fires, they often help with rapid site assessments for rebuilding (in 2020 they streamlined BAL assessments for many destroyed home sites to speed up approvals (FAQ – Bushfire Consultant)). RFS publishes fact sheets, like retrofitting guides and plant choice guides for landscaping.
- Fire and Rescue NSW (FRNSW): In NSW, FRNSW is the fire service for metropolitan areas (cities and towns), whereas RFS covers rural and some outlying urban-fringe bushfire areas. There’s a bit of overlap. FRNSW does not have a statutory role in bushfire planning like RFS does, but they are stakeholders for urban areas. For example:
- In parts of Sydney that are bushfire prone, RFS still does the assessments and planning in coordination with councils (even though FRNSW would be the responder in those suburbs for house fires, RFS handles bushfire prevention advice).
- FRNSW does focus on community resilience in urban interface – they run programs like the Community Fire Unit (CFU) program, where local residents in bushland-adjacent suburbs are trained and equipped to do property protection when bushfire threatens. This is more response/preparedness oriented, but it complements the physical building resilience. A suburb like Lane Cove in Sydney, for instance, has CFUs because houses back onto national park; those volunteers wet down homes and put out spot fires during an event, working under FRNSW. So FRNSW engages communities differently from RFS but importantly.
- FRNSW also weigh in on building codes (they are part of standards committees, etc.), bringing perspective of firefighting in built environments. While RFS might say “design it this way to never need firefighters,” FRNSW might emphasize “ensure there’s a hydrant near that house, ensure large complexes have sprinkler systems,” etc. In the 2020 national Royal Commission, FRNSW likely contributed to recommendations on improved building standards and integration of fire services in planning.
- Local Councils: Councils in NSW incorporate PBP requirements into their Development Control Plans (DCPs) often. They sometimes add their own flavor, e.g. specifying certain plant species to avoid in landscaping (like banning highly flammable weeds near homes). They issue the actual approvals with RFS guidance. Councils also designate Neighbourhood Safer Places and ensure local refuge areas are known (with RFS evaluation).
- Building Code (NCC) in NSW: The NCC (National Construction Code) is adopted with some NSW variations. NSW did something interesting after 2020: they made AS 3959:2018 freely available to the public to encourage its use. They also are looking at whether certain BAL provisions should be strengthened further (like discussion of possibly mandating sprinklers in flame zone, though no requirement yet).
- Case in NSW: For example, a new subdivision in the Blue Mountains (a very fire-prone region) under PBP might require each lot to be at BAL-29 or less, an APZ implemented along the bush edge maintained by council, roads designed for two-way traffic (for evacuation and fire truck access simultaneously), and a perimeter road doubling as a fire break. Houses then built must follow AS 3959 for their BAL. In the devastating 2013 Blue Mountains fire, streets that had such layouts fared better than older streets where houses backed straight onto bush with no buffer.
Cross-State and National Context:
Nationally, the Australian Building Codes Board (ABCB) has set consistent performance requirements: a building in a bushfire area must “reduce the risk of ignition” \\). All states meet this via AS 3959 or the NASH standard for steel homes. But states can tweak things. As we’ve seen, Vic and NSW have robust systems. Other states:
- South Australia: Uses similar mapping and has a “Bushfire Protection Area” overlay. CFS (SA Country Fire Service) gives input like CFA/RFS do. SA tends to mirror AS 3959 requirements directly.
- Queensland: Also identifies bushfire-prone areas and requires BAL assessments, though bushfire risk is a bit more localized (mostly southeast QLD and some inland areas). QLD Fire and Emergency Services provide guidelines but QLD’s planning is a little less centralized than NSW/Vic.
- Western Australia: After some bad fires (like 2011 Perth Hills, 2015 Esperance), WA implemented requirements similar to NSW. They have their own State Planning Policy 3.7 and Guidelines for Bushfire Prone Areas. They also have the BAL assessor accreditation (via FPAA) requirement. So a new house in WA bushfire prone land will need a BAL, etc., much like NSW.
- Tasmania: Also has a mapping and “Bushfire Prone Area” building requirement, and TFS (Tasmania Fire Service) oversight in planning.
The common thread: all jurisdictions have embraced the BAL concept and embed it in both planning (where to build, how to lay out developments) and building (how to construct the building). They may differ in details (like Vic’s min BAL 12.5 for BPA, or NSW’s requirement of a “shielded” calculation if one side of house is not exposed, etc.), but generally an owner anywhere in Australia with bushfire risk will encounter a similar regime.
One more aspect is community refuges and emergency planning: Towns in high-risk areas often have designated safer places (like ovals or buildings) as last resort shelters. This is more emergency management than building regulation, but planning for those – like making sure an oval is maintained clear and accessible – is part of council’s responsibility. It’s part of the holistic approach: strong buildings, good planning layout, and safety nets if evacuation fails.
The Role of Traditional Knowledge and Local Fire Brigades in Planning:
As noted earlier, integrating indigenous land management (like cultural burning) is being considered at policy levels. The Royal Commission 2020 recommended greater use of Aboriginal fire knowledge for hazard reduction. While this doesn’t directly show up in BAL or building codes, it may influence how landscapes around communities are managed by agencies, which in turn affects risk to buildings. So future planning schemes might explicitly incorporate “maintain this area with cultural burn practices” as a condition.
Local volunteer brigades (CFA, RFS units) also often know the landscape intricately. During planning referrals, their insights can be valuable: e.g., a brigade might tell council “that proposed new house is on a slope that we know funnels winds – if they build there, we suggest a wider APZ or an alternate access.” Good councils and fire agencies will heed such input.
Fire and Rescue NSW (being the city fire service) is also increasingly involved in climate adaptation planning for cities, including bushfire threats as urban fringes expand. They coordinate with RFS for those interface areas. For instance, in outer Western Sydney new estates, FRNSW ensures water mains are sufficient for their trucks while RFS ensures the estate layout meets bushfire planning. It’s a cooperative approach.
In conclusion, both Victoria and NSW have mature, multilayered systems to deal with bushfire risk:
- Mapping (BPA/BPL) to flag risk areas.
- Planning controls (BMO in Vic, PBP in NSW) to ensure safe subdivision design and to sometimes prevent development in the most dangerous spots.
- Building regulations requiring BAL compliance to make structures hardened.
- Fire agency oversight (CFA, RFS) to enforce and advise on these measures.
- Community programs and emergency planning to prepare residents and provide safety nets.
These regulations continue to be refined. The future likely holds even more integration – for example, dynamic risk mapping as climate changes, or perhaps incentivizing retrofits via planning schemes (some councils might make it easier to get approval for a renovation if you include bushfire upgrades, for instance).
Having examined the current state of practice, let’s finally cast an eye forward: how might BAL assessment and bushfire resilience evolve with new technologies, changing climate, and incorporation of traditional practices?
The Future of BAL Assessment and Bushfire Resilience
As climate change accelerates and bushfire patterns shift, the approach to assessing and mitigating bushfire risk will also need to evolve. There are several promising developments and ideas on the horizon that could shape the future of BAL ratings and how we build in fire-prone areas. This includes technological innovations, updated scientific knowledge, integration of indigenous fire management, and possibly rethinking where and how we build at all. Let’s explore these.
Technological Advancements in Hazard Assessment and Building Design
- Remote Sensing and Automated BAL Analysis: We touched on how LiDAR was used in the Adelaide Hills to remotely map fuel loads and even generate indicative BAL ratings for thousands of structures). This kind of high-resolution data and analysis is likely to become more common. In the near future, we could see:
- BAL mapping tools for planners: Imagine a council having a GIS layer that automatically updates BAL zones around every house as vegetation changes (perhaps using satellite imagery that detects regrowth or land clearing). This could help monitor compliance (e.g., if someone lets vegetation regrow too close) and plan community fuel management.
- User-friendly BAL calculators for homeowners: There are already some online tools, but they often require input of distances, etc. With more open data (like the free release of AS 3959 in NCC and possibly vegetation mapping), apps could be made that let a homeowner drop a pin on a map and see an estimated BAL based on known vegetation and topography. This could increase awareness and encourage early planning.
- Drones for inspection: Fire authorities and perhaps assessors might use drones to inspect rooflines and hard-to-see areas to identify vulnerabilities (like accumulated debris in gutters or gaps) which feed into maintenance advice – kind of like a “digital fire safety audit” of a property.
- Improved Fire Modeling and Climate Data Integration: The BAL system currently uses a fixed worst-case Fire Danger Index (like 100). But as climate change pushes fire weather beyond historical ranges, we might question if BAL 40 (which corresponds to a certain flame temperature and FDI scenario) is enough in the future. Researchers are developing models that can simulate how, for instance, a day of Catastrophic fire conditions (say FDI 120 or 140, which could become more frequent) would impact structures. We might see updates to AS 3959 to account for these new extremes – possibly introducing new categories or expanding flame zone considerations. Already the standard is periodically revised (2018 was last full revision). The next revision might incorporate findings from recent megafires.
Additionally, Fire spread models like Phoenix RapidFire (used in Australia) and others can now predict radiant heat flux at structures in a simulated fire. In the future, during a wildfire event, emergency services might be able to use these models in real-time to identify which houses are at highest risk and target resources or warnings accordingly (“these 10 houses will likely face BAL-40 conditions in an hour – ensure those people evacuate if not prepared”).
- Innovative Fire-Resistant Materials and Systems: The construction industry is evolving:
- New fireproof coatings are being tested, such as spray-on intumescent coatings for timber that could allow more use of sustainable wood even in high BAL areas by greatly improving its fire resistance (these are currently used in commercial buildings for steel, but adapted for wood cladding could be interesting).
- High-temperature glazing systems – technologies from the commercial fire door/glass industry might trickle to residential. For example, gel-filled fire resistant glass (which can resist fire for 30+ minutes) could be used in windows to avoid needing shutters.
- Integrated sprinkler and sensor systems: Smart home tech might integrate fire defense. Already you can get heat-triggered roof sprinklers (like a fuse bulb that opens a valve when external heat hits a threshold). Future homes could have sensors that detect embers or fire radiation and automatically activate pumps, send an alert to your phone, etc. Some experimental systems even include ember-detection IR cameras and targeted water misters.
- Fire-resistant modular homes: Some architects are exploring prefabricated modules that are inherently BAL-FZ compliant – e.g., concrete pods with minimal openings. These could be quickly deployed in rebuilding efforts. One design that won awards is a novel bushfire-resistant house design that encourages owners to flee rather than fight, because it can withstand fires on its own. This indicates a design philosophy where the house becomes a refuge but you are not expected to actively defend it – something to strive for in future building codes.
- Performance-Based Design Alternative: Currently, the BAL approach is prescriptive – follow these rules. However, some architects and engineers are investigating performance-based solutions for unique designs. For example, instead of following every detail of AS 3959, an engineered approach might combine active suppression (sprinklers), thermal barriers (earth berms), etc., to meet the same performance goals. As simulation tools improve, we might see more of this for custom projects (similar to how some buildings use fire engineering to avoid some prescriptive code items by proving equivalent safety). This could enable more architectural freedom while still achieving safety, but it requires rigorous testing and approval processes.
Incorporating Traditional Fire Knowledge and Community Involvement
Cultural Burning and Land Management: We expect a greater blending of indigenous fire management practices with contemporary bushfire mitigation. Already, the Australian government and states are funding programs to increase the scale of “cool burning” in landscapes, guided by Aboriginal rangers. How does this intersect with BAL and building? Potentially in a few ways:
- If cultural burning reduces fuel loads around communities on a regular basis, the actual intensity of fires should lessen, meaning the real conditions a house faces might be less than the worst-case BAL scenario. This can reduce losses and might, in the long run, allow slight relaxation of building requirements if the landscape risk is demonstrably kept low. (For now, regulations won’t assume that – they assume worst-case – but in a well-managed landscape, a BAL-40 house might only ever see BAL-19 conditions in practice, for example.)
- There could be formal recognition of community-managed fire regimes. For instance, a community might enter an agreement with land authorities to maintain an area with cultural burns; in return, planning rules might allow a bit more development or lower APZ requirement because risk is managed. This is speculative but conceivable.
- Homeowners themselves might partake in community burns (with training and under supervision). This fosters a culture of shared responsibility. Instead of just relying on government agencies to do hazard reduction (which can be stretched thin), locals – guided by indigenous and fire experts – could lighten the load. Over time, a patchwork of such managed lands creates a mosaic that stops megafires from getting as large or intense (A dive into the deep past reveals Indigenous burning helped suppress bushfires 10,000 years ago).
Community Fire Adaptation: There’s a trend toward making entire communities “fire-adapted” not just individual homes. This means:
- Regular community forums and drills for bushfire scenarios. Knowledge is as important as hardware – everyone knowing where to go, how to help each other, etc.
- Perhaps community-owned equipment (like trailer-mounted pumps, communal shelters) especially in rural subdivisions, so that even if each house is BAL-xx, they have backup if things go south.
- Neighbourhood networks where people help maintain each other’s properties – e.g., an elderly resident might need help to clear gutters or trim trees; a local volunteer group (maybe the CFU or Fire Guard group) does that pre-season. This is an extension of retrofitting and maintenance – making sure it actually happens where needed.
Insurance and Incentives: In the future, we may see insurance companies offering premium discounts for houses that exceed standard bushfire protections (similar to how some insurers give discounts for home security systems or hail-resistant roofs). If they have data proving that houses with, say, external sprinklers have far fewer claims, they might push that by making insurance cheaper for those who install them. Conversely, they might raise premiums for houses that are grandfathered in with poor resilience unless they retrofit. This financial nudge could drive upgrades.
Adapting to Climate Change: Hard Questions and Potential Shifts
Climate change is expected to lengthen fire seasons, produce more extreme fire weather days, and expand the areas that are bushfire prone (e.g., fires might occur in areas previously too wet or too cool, like parts of Tasmania or coastal hinterland). This poses big challenges:
- Expanding BAL mapping: Areas not previously designated as bushfire prone might need to be added. For instance, after severe fires in 2019 in areas of suburban Sydney that historically hadn’t burned, some of those suburb’s maps were updated to include bushfire prone zones further in. We might see more urban areas included – requiring even city fringes to consider BAL (already happening in places like Canberra’s newer expansions).
- Higher BAL categories or new approaches: If fire weather intensifies beyond design assumptions, standards may incorporate an extra safety margin. Possibly a “BAL-50” or similar could be defined for an even greater radiant heat (though flame zone already covers direct flame, maybe it’d be about longer duration or more radiant heat). Alternatively, it might be about requiring active systems (like a built-in sprinkler system) for areas beyond current capability. The International Code (in the US) is looking at things like requiring exterior sprinklers for homes in wildfire zones. Australia might consider that if things get worse.
- Managed Retreat: There’s a difficult but real discussion about whether, in some locations, the risk will become too high to justify rebuilding at all. The 2020 Royal Commission broached this concept – that in extreme risk areas, relocation or buyback programs could be considered rather than perpetually rebuilding and endangering lives. If climate change turns certain regions into tinderboxes where even BAL-FZ houses would struggle, the strategy might shift from defend in place to retreat. We’ve seen this with flooding (governments buying floodplain houses to remove them); for bushfire, it’s more complex because such large areas can be flammable. But perhaps for particularly exposed locales (e.g., a few houses atop a ridge deep in a forest), authorities might encourage not rebuilding after a fire through incentives or regulations.
- Heat, Smoke, and Secondary Effects: Also consider that bushfire resilience includes not just surviving the fire, but the aftermath. For example, after a big fire, a community might have no power or water for days. Future resilient homes might need off-grid capability to be truly livable post-fire (solar+battery so you have lights, pumps, fridge, even if the grid is down). Also, smoke-proofing is a consideration: prolonged bushfire smoke is a health hazard. New air-conditioning systems with HEPA filters or safe rooms with filtered air could become selling points or even requirements for certain buildings (especially hospitals, aged care, etc., in fire zones). The 2020 PBP in NSW actually added guidance for “special fire protection” buildings like aged care to have a smoke management plan, since evacuating fragile people is hard.
Urban Planning: The focus might shift more to controlling where development is allowed. For instance, after the 2020 fires, some regions down the South Coast are revisiting their strategic plans – maybe not encouraging urban sprawl into the most forested areas, instead concentrating growth in safer spots (closer to coast, existing towns). Planning codes might require multiple access roads for any new subdivision (so there’s always an exit route even if one is cut off). If one positive can come from tragedy, it’s that future settlements will be planned with fire in mind from the ground up – something that perhaps wasn’t always the case in the past.
International Collaboration: With wildfires intensifying globally (e.g., in California, Mediterranean Europe, etc.), there’s a lot of knowledge exchange. Australian BAL concepts have parallels in the Wildland-Urban Interface codes in the US, and vice versa, American ideas (like fire-resistant vents, which were big in California, are sold here now) travel to Australia. The future might bring even more standardized global solutions and products as the market for fire-resilient construction grows worldwide.
In essence, the future will likely see a multi-pronged approach: smarter assessments (potentially real-time and high-tech), stronger yet more adaptable buildings, better land management that includes ancient wisdom, and possibly more candid decisions about not placing people in harm’s way. Communities will need to adapt culturally as well – treating bushfire preparedness as a continuous, shared responsibility much like how some flood-prone areas have done.
The BAL rating system itself has proven a robust framework for the last decade-plus, and with tweaks and improvements, it will remain a key tool in climate adaptation for wildfire. But we’ll need to supplement it with the other measures mentioned to truly stay ahead of the escalating risk.
Conclusion
Bushfire risk is an inescapable part of living in large portions of Australia. Yet, as we have detailed throughout this guide, proactive measures in building design, construction, and planning can greatly reduce the danger to life and property. The concept of Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) has emerged as a unifying framework that translates the complex dynamics of bushfires into practical requirements for safer homes and communities. By understanding your property’s BAL rating and implementing the prescribed (or even enhanced) construction features, you are doing the single most important thing to improve your home’s survivability in a fire.
This comprehensive look at “BAL rating for my property” has covered:
- The fundamentals of bushfire behavior and why ember attack is the primary cause of house loss.
- The BAL system under AS 3959 – what each level from LOW to Flame Zone means in terms of fire intensity and required construction response.
- How BAL assessments are conducted, factoring in vegetation, slope, and distance – and the role of professionals in getting your property properly assessed.
- The specific building requirements at each BAL level, and how they affect materials and design – from basic ember screens at BAL-12.5 to essentially a fortress-like build at BAL-FZ.
- Practical steps for new builds and retrofits to maximize resilience – emphasizing that attention to detail (sealing gaps, using non-combustibles, clearing surroundings) can save homes even in extreme fires.
- Real-world case studies illustrating both success and failure – new code-compliant homes surviving intense fires vs. older homes succumbing, underscoring the value of the measures we advocate.
- The regulatory landscape in Victoria and NSW, where strong planning controls (BMO, PBP) and the involvement of fire services (CFA, RFS, FRNSW) ensure that bushfire risk is considered at every stage of development.
- A forward-looking discussion on how technology, climate change, and traditional knowledge will influence bushfire resilience strategies in the years to come – including more advanced assessment tools, innovative materials, and possibly new policies on where we build.
The key takeaway is one of empowerment through knowledge and action. With the information in this guide, fire service professionals can better advise communities, builders can confidently incorporate bushfire safety into their projects, academics can identify areas for further research (like climate adaptation of standards), and homeowners can make informed decisions to protect their families and assets.
Remember that bushfire resilience is a shared responsibility:
- Homeowners should take initiative in maintaining their property (cleaning gutters, managing vegetation) and executing recommended retrofits. Little things – a mesh here, a seal there – collectively make a huge difference when embers are pelting your home.
- Builders and designers should treat bushfire measures not as an onerous add-on, but as integral to good design in fire-prone regions. Many fire-safe design elements can be elegantly integrated (and sometimes even enhance the aesthetics and energy efficiency of the home – e.g., double glazing, simple rooflines, etc.). Innovation in this space is ongoing, and embracing it will set you apart as a builder who delivers both safety and quality.
- Communities and local governments need to plan with the worst in mind. This means enforcing standards (even when it’s unpopular due to cost), investing in fire breaks and refuges, and engaging residents in preparedness programs. The examples of rebuilding efforts in places like Kinglake or Cobargo demonstrate that building back better is possible and saves grief in the next fire.
- Fire agencies (CFA, RFS, FRNSW, etc.) will continue to be key players – not only fighting fires but also fighting complacency. Their guidance, education, and sometimes firm requirements push everyone to do their part. Supporting these agencies, and heeding their expertise, is vital.
In a broader sense, living with bushfire risk is part of the Australian experience. It’s analogous to how Japan lives with earthquakes or how coastal communities live with cyclones – through respect for the hazard and rigorous preparation. We have seen Australian communities, time and again, rebuild stronger and smarter after tragedy. The BAL rating system is one of the legacies of such learning, turning lessons from past fires into concrete (and steel, and toughened glass…) solutions for the future.
Yet, we cannot be complacent. Climate change means the goalposts are moving. What was once a “1 in 50 year” fire event may become more frequent. Thus, continued research, updating of standards, and possibly adopting new protective technologies will be necessary. This guide should not be the last word, but rather a foundation that readers can build upon with the latest developments and local knowledge.
To conclude on a hopeful note: by combining modern science, wise land management (including Indigenous practices), stringent building codes, and community preparedness, we can significantly mitigate bushfire impacts. A fire-resilient house, set in a fire-conscious landscape, gives its occupants a fighting chance – and often that’s the difference between minor repairs or total loss.
“Bushfire-safe design is sustainable design” in the truest sense: it sustains human life and property in the face of nature’s fiercest force. As you apply the insights from this guide – whether upgrading your home, advising a resident, or developing policies – you are contributing to a safer and more resilient Australian community.
Stay informed, stay prepared, and never underestimate the importance of that BAL report or that extra meter of clearing – when the embers fall and the flames roar, those measures stand between you and disaster. Fortunately, with knowledge and effort, we can ensure that even as bushfires continue to challenge us, our homes and communities are not easy prey to the flames (Building for bushfire).
Let this comprehensive understanding of BAL and bushfire resilience be a tool that helps you protect what matters most.
Stay safe, build smart, and live confidently – even with bushfire on the horizon.
References
- Australian Standard AS 3959:2018 – Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas.
- Country Fire Authority (CFA). Bushfire Management Overlay (BMO) Guidelines. Retrieved from https://www.cfa.vic.gov.au
- NSW Rural Fire Service. Planning for Bushfire Protection 2019. Retrieved from https://www.rfs.nsw.gov.au
- Department of Environment, Land, Water and Planning (DELWP) Victoria. Bushfire Planning and Building Toolkit.
- Geoscience Australia. (2020). National Exposure Information System (NEXIS).
- Standards Australia. (2018). AS 3959: Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas.
- CSIRO. (2020). Bushfire Behavior and Risk Modelling. Retrieved from https://www.csiro.au
- Australian Building Codes Board (ABCB). National Construction Code (NCC).
- Emergency Management Victoria. Safer Together: A partnership approach to reducing bushfire risk in Victoria.
- Office of the Victorian Government Architect. Designing for Bushfire: A landscape and architectural guide.
- Planning Institute of Australia. Planning for Bushfire Resilient Communities.
- Bushfire and Natural Hazards CRC. (2021). Community Understanding of BAL Ratings.
- Insurance Council of Australia. (2021). Bushfire Resilience and Building Codes.
- Environmental Defenders Office. (2020). Legal Frameworks for Bushfire Preparedness.
- Fire Protection Association Australia. Bushfire Planning and Design (BPAD) Accreditation Scheme.
Note: Additional references and academic sources are integrated throughout the body of the report.
About the Author
Ken Ashford
Ken Ashford is a seasoned professional in fire and emergency services, with over four decades of operational experience across Victoria. As a former firefighter and ongoing advocate for fire safety, bushfire risk education, and public resilience, Ken brings lived experience, practical knowledge, and policy insight to complex fire-related challenges. His work is dedicated to bridging the gap between technical fire science, public policy, and community understanding.
Disclaimer
This publication is provided for general informational purposes only and does not constitute legal, technical, or professional advice. While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, completeness, and relevance, the author and publisher accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or damage arising from its use. Bushfire risk assessments such as BAL (Bushfire Attack Level) ratings should always be conducted by appropriately qualified and accredited professionals. Legislative requirements and construction standards may vary between jurisdictions and are subject to change. Readers are encouraged to consult relevant state and local authorities for the most current regulations and advice regarding bushfire planning, property assessments, and construction standards.